If you don't have the cat-like agility to get out of the way of slowly falling, heavy items, then you have no business in a shop to begin with. That's my motto anyway.
Last edited by 52Carl; 08/31/20172:23 AM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I usually need a 3' cheater pipe or a big pipe wrench for things I put in my big vice, so if it's not bolted to a big workbench or the floor, wouldn't work the way I use it. Maybe just me. The grinder stand is top notch. I just saw a fellow had added one of those flap disk to the outside of his grind wheel to clean up ends of pipe or whatever your working it. Looks like that would work for you Jay with the side exposed like you have it. I'm going to give it a try also.
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
As I mentioned earlier, I already have a nice bench vise bolted to a heavy table. The vise on the portable stand is for working outside. I frequently work outside and having a vise next to my welder is convenient. I use it to hold metal pieces as I shape them. Nice to hold pieces as I grind too. Sparks and metal dust stay outside to minimize dust inside the shop. The same goes for the grinder. You guys need to stop busting my chops about the vise stand tipping over. It's not intended for that kind of work because I have another one for that purpose. Or are you just having fun yanking on my chain?
No worries Jay, I didn't read the whole thread. You didn't get this old being stupid. Seems like you might want to weld some wheels to the back of it though, so they catch as you lean it back since you're going to be moving it a lot. Nice work.
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
We have several small stands like that in the shop. I fill the base with concrete and set them on shallow rubber feet, then use a 2 wheel dolly to move them as needed. Works great for smaller work.
Jay, nice work on the stands. In my shop, floor space is a premium, so a "modular" stand that can accommodate different bits was made. Also allows you to remove the heavy part prior to moving so it doesn't fall on you.. (jk)
I plan to make a few more stand "table tops" for other tools that I use less often. I have a table top buffer that I'll make a table top so it can mount onto the grinder stand by doing a simple exchange of the top.
Jay, nice work on the stands. In my shop, floor space is a premium, so a "modular" stand that can accommodate different bits was made. Also allows you to remove the heavy part prior to moving so it doesn't fall on you.. (jk) https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5160575&postcount=1431.
I like that anvil on a pedestal. I need to make one like that. Any tips as to what I should use for the anvil end?
On the rounded one I used the end of an acetylene bottle cap and just welded the square tube inside. It's not too heavy of steel, but the sheet metal we're using is MUCH thinner and should give first. Here's a sample...
(jk)