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Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for
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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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| | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 222 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 222 | My 1935 pickup has many layers of paint on it. I have stripped and sanded to where everything is smooth and ready to paint. Parts of the panels are bare, some retain some of the original paint, and some have rust converter on it. I plan on painting with acrylic enamel, perhaps centrion {sp?}. I am looking for a primer that will cover all these surfaces and be suitable for acrylic enamel paint. What are my options? | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Epoxy probably. Some may not do well with the converter. Call SPI, Southern Polyurethane Inc. and tell them all that...... and see what they say. Their Epoxy primer can go under almost any paint. Going over body filler or under body filler is OK. Going over old paint that is tight is OK. Epoxy seals it all and is sandable and does not really need any further primer....or surfacer. Bottom lime is that epoxy primer is the best idea. You will have to figure out compatibility from the supplier of epoxy and paint. It's always advisable to buy it all from the same company.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 222 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 222 | Thanks bartamos, Thanks for taking the time to respond. I will contact SPI and see what they say. After stripping and sanding there are still rust pits in some spots. I was going to use the rust converter to take care of the spots that were too small to get all the rust out of these small pits. If I remove the metal deep enough to get the rust out, I have little metal left. I will follow your suggestion, epoxy primer, and will look into compatibility with rust converter. Thanks. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | If it won't take a jab with an ice pick, it needs patched.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 | I have a lot of faith in SPI epoxy primer, but it ends with rusty pits in metal. I am a big fan of having my parts media blasted and epoxy primed.
Another benefit of blasting is removing the hard-to-get-to nooks and crannies of all of the pinch welds and lap welds.
However, none of this matters if one is only going for a daily driver type paint job and not a 8-10 thousand dollar paint job.
Carl and his 2 cents
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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