The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What to do while the covers are off?

I've got a few decent leaks, one from the valve cover and one from the oil pan on my 216 (Transmission as well, but that's another time)

I will need to 'adjust' the VC lip a bit, as it seems to be bent up and not allowing for a good seal. While I have the cover and pan off, is there some other maintenance or checks that should be done before reassembly that will make my life easier? The engine runs well and other than playing with the timing, I don't really want to risk screwing it up for something unnecessary. For reassembly, I'm going to stick with the tech tips as there are various opinions in the forums.

Thanks!

Valve adjustment?

Ditto on the valve adjustment. Might also want to run it without the cover to verify rockers are oiling correctly.

Ok, is everyone of the opinion that https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/valveadjustment.htm is still accurate?

Yes, and similar techniques can be found elsewhere on the net.

That Tech Tip is not accurate/correct for hydraulic lifters (a 216 will have me mechanical/solid lifters).

That method is as good as any. There are several ways to position the camshaft to adjust the valves. Stick to one and learn it Print on some card stock and hang under the hood where you can see it while you work.
To make it easier to turn the engine by hand, remove the spark plugs. Put the tranny in neutral. Tighten the fan belt and you can turn the engine with the fan blade. Don't forget to loosen the belt when finished, too tight and the water pump bushing will wear.

On your valve cover. It is sheet metal. Straighten the edges with a hammer and dolly technique. I put a board in the vise for my dolly.

More - it takes me to long to type.

For the valve cover gasket. Used to be Mr. Gasket made the best. A materiel that sealed and a gasket that was long enough. No longer in the catalog. Thankfully I have a couple rat-holed.

The biggest problem I have found is many are not long enough. If yours is like that you need to find one longer. If needed you can make do with 2 gaskets.
Measure the length of your cover from end to end getting the total length of the gasket.
Lay the gaskets on a smooth bench, one directly on top of the other. Position the gaskets to the total length using the measurement from above. This is the critical part. Check the length using the valve cover on top.
Use a razor blade or very sharp knife and cut the gaskets together so the pieces match. Make diagonal cuts (roughly 45*) about the center of each side, but not directly across from each other.
Keep the glue thin and simple. Yellow weatherstrip adhesive is the best for cork. Form-A-Gasket #2 is also good. Oil resistant, sticky and non-drying. Apply adhesive to the cover and the top surface of the gasket, also on the diagonal ends. Put the pieces together per the glue instructions. Do not use adhesive on the head or bottom surface of the gasket. This will allow you to remove the cover for more work later.
The cover nuts need to be snug but not tight. Torque values are listed in the shop manual (available for viewing on Hardy's website). The spec is lower than most torque wrenches go, so tighten them snug enough not to come off. Star type lock washers work best on these.

If you have access to an extra head which you can put on a bench, you can more easily do some tin smithing to make the cover fits tight on the head. This is a must do in most cases to make them leak free.

Thanks Fred/Tim/Carl,

Is it just the clearances that are different from the Tech Tip for 216's?