The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop cab corners touching running board aprons

I have 1954 3600 rebuilt 4 years ago. My problem I believe is the cab has settled a bit over time. I did replace all the front corner supports and shims with new rubber pads. New shackles in the rear too. The aprons are rubbing into the cab corners and scraping off paint. Makes a real bad creaking noise on slow 90 degree corners turning up a driveway. I think I need to shim the shackles to raise the corners up away from the aprons. Does this sound logical?
Thanks a lot
Sharon

Hmm, you shouldn't have to shim the cab more than the factory specification, so here's some thoughts....if none of these apply, I'm stumped....

When you replaced the cab mounts, did you shim between the cab and rear shackle on each side to get the correct clearance between the frame and the floor panel of the cab ? The distance between the cab and the floor panel on your truck is .760" +.060 / -.0 .

On the front mounts , the distance is 1.830 " +.060 / -.0 .

You can go online to the chevy old car manual site and review the information on cab mounts, if that's helpful.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck

I recently replaced the front mounts and refurbished the rear mounts on my 1954 3604. It was a bit of a challenge.

There is a short welded cross frame that the top shackle bolts thru. Its welded to the floor of the cab and has small turned down edges. I cant get my index finger between the floor and the top of the frame rails. I guess that I don't have the required 3/4" inch clearance correct?

I would say you've found the problem. I found it helpful to loosen the front mount bolts when jacking up the rear to install shims between the top of the shackles and the bottom of the floor pan. I made the shims from 18 guage steel sheets I bought from Lowes. I think you got this!

I am surprised that you aren't having problems with your clutch/brake/accelerator pedals interfering with your toe board.
Before you raise the rear of the cab, you will need to check the gap at the front mounts as mentioned by Dusty53.
I would also recommend removing the 2 bolts which hold the bottom of the radiator support to the front crossmember so that you don't put undue stress on the front clip (fenders, radiator support) while you jack up the rear of the cab.
The reason that you need to do all of this extra stuff is because cab adjustments are normally made before the front clip is installed.
Carl

Thanks, I'll pay close attention.

I forgot to mention to remove the rubber mount and any shims under the bottom of the radiator support so that when you raise the back of the cab, the front clip has room to move downward.