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| | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 35 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 35 | 1961 235 is in a 1953 3100. Just got it back from rebuild shop and started it up for the first time. After a few minutes I see oil all over the floor under the front of the engine. I discovered the front plate behind timing cover is bent and allowing oil to flow out between it and the block. Oil Leak Front Plate Bent The rebuild shop is going to make it right but should I get him a replacement front plate or wait and see if he can straighten it back flat? It may have been bent prior to the rebuild but maybe had RTV sealing it from leaking.
Last edited by gsharum; 08/09/2017 11:35 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I think that is pretty disgusting for a rebuild shop to put something together like that. That is a very vital support for the front of your motor. I would definitely replace it. I don't know how one could bend it like that. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,755 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,755 | Replacing that plate is a big job- - - -you need to remove the crankshaft timing gear and pull the camshaft out, plus replacing the gaskets on both sides of the plate. I'd definitely recommend going with a different plate if you can find one. Straightening is an option, but to get it flat enough to seal properly would be pretty labor-intensive and difficult. Use a piece of plate glass and a feeler gauge to check for warp if you decide to straighten it. It looks like somebody tried to pry the plate off the block with one or both of the flat head attaching screws still installed.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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| | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 | Just saw one today on that auction site. Might be what you need.
Ed
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 | Was it bent before the machine shop got ahold of it?
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 35 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 35 | I found a picture I took when I pulled the engine for the shop and it does not appear to be bent at that time. I think I am going to go ahead and get another front plate. Aren't all car and truck 216/235 front plates the same except for the later models need to have the front engine mount holes drilled? pre-rebuild
Last edited by gsharum; 08/10/2017 12:30 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Get the "new" plate and hope the rebuilder will pay for it AND fix it correctly - for free.
HrL's suggestion is, as usual, excellent.
If this costs you, you might want to post the rebuilder's name, if it is a professional shop/rebuilder. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 35 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 35 | It is a very reputable shop that builds mostly race engines. He is going to fix it for free - I would be quite upset if I had to pay! Thank you all for your responses. I couldn't do this without this site and your help.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | While you are at it, fix the timing cover do you don't have to pull the pan to remove the cover, just drill existing holes and tap to next larger size.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 | I found a picture I took when I pulled the engine for the shop and it does not appear to be bent at that time. I think I am going to go ahead and get another front plate. Aren't all car and truck 216/235 front plates the same except for the later models need to have the front engine mount holes drilled? pre-rebuild Yes they are the same but later models need to be drilled. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Pre 68 Dave and others would know, but I dimly recall that some 235 engines had a front plate that did not have a lip/edge where holes could be drilled? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | Only late model GMC's had a plates that did not have a lip for the mount.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 |
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | I think the tech tip article is a little vague not stating to only drill the .375" and .437" holes through the steel, not into the cast iron bearing retainer. Of course, this all much easier to do when the engine is apart.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 | Whatever you end up doing, I would suggest that you take the matter up with the machine shop so that his guys know better the next time they work on a Stovebolt engine. Most shops have an inexperienced guy whose only job is to disassemble and throw the parts in the parts cleaner.
The guy who reassembled it is not Employee of the Month material either.
I guess that is why shops tend to give the "I don't want to do this job" price for older engines.
Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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