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| | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 142 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 142 | I have a coolant leak at the head to block.Replaced the head gasket twice still ozzes out.Will one of the additives on the market work or will they plug up something? I have heard good and bad on these products(barrs al etc.)Any thoughts will be a help. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 | You need to pull the head and have it checked for warpage at a machine shop. They can fix it. While the head is off, check the condition of the block deck surface.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 | Don't use any additive unless absolutely necessary (like, to get home), and then flush it out. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | I've used Bars-Leaks for years on small leaks like that & it has always worked & never clogged any thing up. Follow directions. Make sure the system is warmed up & circulating.
George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 142 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 142 | The head was off and surfaced at a reliable machine shop.The block was surfaced when it was rebuilt three years ago(500 miles ago) | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 | At this point trying Bars Leak won't hurt a thing. If it works great, if not, well, your going to have to tear it down.ðŸ›
Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 | To recap:
The head and block was surfaced.
You have replaced the head gasket twice, because of head gasket leaks.
Did the leak occur right away? Exactly where is it leaking?
What year engine do you have?
What engine work was performed at the time before the first head gasket leak occurred?
What brand of head gasket did you use?
What torque setting did you use on the head bolts? Did you tighten them in sequence at half the final spec before you tightened them to the final specs?
Did you try to re-torque the bolts after engine warmup?
I had a 235 full pressure engine which seeped oil from the head gasket on the distributor side of the engine which was corrected by re-torquing the head bolts after the engine reached operating temperature.
There has to be a logical reason for why you are having this problem. Adding stop leak may fix the leak, but it will not solve the mystery. I like solving mysteries. It helps avoiding similar problems in the future.
Carl
Last edited by 52Carl; 07/21/2017 2:10 AM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | Sodium Silicate is an excellent 'get home' remedy, however my most recent experience indicates the use of antifreeze disables it's effectiveness.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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