The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine and drive train swap in a 46

Hey yall! I am looking at buying a 46 Chevy PU, but before I lay down the money I wanted to ask the following questions to make sure that I won't get in over my head.

1) Is there a kit that someone makes to swap in a small block and auto tranny into the truck with minimal cutting a modification?

2) What would be a good used axle to use in the rear? I.E. What year and make donnor vehicle?

3) When installing a V8 and auto tranny, will I have to cut the floor or firewall?

I know it is a sin to get rid of a good ol' stovebolt, but I all ready have a couple of the sixers and am in need of cheaper horsepower and better fuel economy.

I'd like to make a rod out of it. Picture a raked, satin black, pin striped, WWW tired, banjo steering wheeled, indian blanketed, caddy air cleanered, 327 powered 46 Pickup cruzin down main street on a cool autumn night!!!!

Let me know what you think and thanks in advance for letting me pick your brain!!!

Why don't you just swap the body over to a different frame, then you will have better suspension, sterring and brakes to go with a more powerful mill. I am installing my 46 on to a 76 1 1/4ton 4x4 frame. There is a bit of work to make new cab mounts and line up the body but you should be able to find a donor vehicle pretty cheap.I've read a few post were some frames wheel base are the same. If you start messing around with changing front clips and the works it can get pretty expensive, although the route i'm going is starting to add up already. The 350 fits in the bay nice with only a few modification's to the fire wall for the sterring column and the tranny and transfer case fit without any modifications to the floor. Hope this helps you out a bit

Thanks for the input. I was thinking about a chassis swap, however a want to retain the front clip and add a dropped straight axle. I like the look. Who cares about the ride quality.... its a rod. I really need some advice on the engine and tranny swap. Does anyone make a kit?

What.. Has noone put a V8 in the stock 46 chassis? Can anyone help a fellow stovebolter out? I'd like to get this truck, but if a V8 won't fit between the frame rails with out major cutting and reinforcement I would like to know before I make the investment. Please Please Please help!

Joe,
I'm in the process of swapping a 350 into a 45 1-1/2 ton truck. No kit.
Come down and take a look. I'm in Bowling green.

JR

I have a friend who put a 283 in a '46 when he was in high shool 30+ years ago, and still drives the truck. He used a 3-speed and rear-end from a late 50's Chevy car.

In the same time frame, but long before I met this guy, I put a 283 and a powerglide in a '41. The '41 and '46 are the same truck. I didn't buy a kit, but used '55-'57 type front mounts with a homemade front crossmember. If I were doing it again I'd buy one of the saddle type engine mount crossmembers that are available mail order.

I had steering/exhaust clearance issues on mine.

Try Chasis Engineering inc
http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/chevy/1937-1954chevpu.htm

No cutting the firewall if you use the old point type dist. or aftermarket electronic, with the large GM dist you will have to make room for it on the firewall.

The set up is for a 350/ 350, for a rear you can use a 70's camaro or 80's s10 blazer (drum rear)If that is the set up try a 87 astro van driveshaft.

Thanks for all of your input! I think I will get the truck now... though I do need to get rid of my 69 C10 to make room. Anyone need a good solid daily driven PU?

JR.. I may take you up on the offer to see your truck. I need to get mine first.

Later~

My donar is a 70 1-ton and I'm making a crossmember like the kit one described above. I used the orig. cross member under the trany and that's putting my 4-speed a little too high for the orig floorboards. I'll just fab up a sheatmetal hump when I get to that part. I am using the 1970 motor mounts be raising them up to keep motor level and give me a little bit more og a gap between the u-joint and the seat. I'll have to make a driveshaft too.
I wanted to keep the 1945 look, stance and ride so I kept the orig axle. That puts the steering gearbox right where the left exhaust should be. I'm putting a RIGHT exhaust manifold on the left side and that'll let me take the exhaust off the front corner of the motor around the steering.
I also used the donar's power brake master and put it back of where the orig master was. This is a bit tricky on the truck and might be a real pain on a pickup. As is, I'll have to funnel fluid through the gap between the cab and bed.
As far as firewall goes I am okay with no cutting or anything. I'm even using a bent and extended version of the throttle linkage from the 235.
I think I'll get away with using the 1970 radiator put in on its side and blew with an electric fan.
I don't see any huge problems there. Right now I'm stumped with brake and clutch linkage but I'm sure I'll figure it out eventually.
One key point: Other than drilling a few 1/2 inch holes, I am leaving the frame as it was. Also, no
hacking of the body. If I ever come into possession of a living 235, I can swap it back in and be all origonal (if that matters to you?)

JR

Yeah, come on down. I'm just off exit 28 on I-65.
I can relate to your crowded garage.
I've got 1970 c30 body parts to go with your 1969.
JR

I wouldn't worry about getting a small block to fit in the '46. I have a '46 1/2 ton, with the original straight axle and springs. I stuffed a 383 cu. in. Chrysler big block in it and didn't have to cut anything out of the way. I have the 727 Chrysler trans. and rear end also. The floor board fit fine and even the louver inner fender panels, fit back, in place. My steering gear is not stock, so that may or may not be in the way on yours. I used a Maverick stock radiator and still have the original radiator support in place.

smokinjoe,
your truck idea sounds good. but you will probably have to get your stock axle re-worked because I don't think anyone makes dropped axles for art deco trucks. depending on the amount of drop you will probably then have to relocate the steering box anyway to keep the geometry right.

Just some thoughts since I have been thinking about these same things as I rod my '41 3/4 ton. Keeping the staight axle and stovebolt but have decided the best route for me will be Z'ing the frame and channeling the body slightly to get it down to where I want it.

cheers