The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 1937 PU Radiator Removal

I prefer not to reinvent the wheel. So, will someone familiar/experienced with the removal of the Radiator from a 1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
Pickup please share the process/steps with me. Thanks in advance

I have owned my 37 truck since 1979. In all the years I have had it, I have removed the radiator several times. Once I removed it by unbolting the radiator housing from the front fenders and leaning it forward, standing on a step ladder and pulling the radiator up and out. I later found out if you have the original 216 engine, you can remove the water pump, unbolt it and slide it out from the front of the engine, unbolt the radiator and push it back toward the engine and slide it up and out. If you have a 235 with the recessed water pump, this can't be done, and the only way I get mine out now is to removed the entire front in one piece - the fenders and the radiator housing, what is called the front clip. It isn't that difficult, unbolt the fenders at the running boards and the two big bolts at the bottom of the radiator housing and it will lift off. It takes about four to five people to lift it off. Then you all have a drink together. If there was a way to be able to remove the top of the radiator surround, that would help, but it is welded in and to drill it out or remove it could be a task. If you could do that and bolt it back in an attractive way, you would have come up with an idea that apparently Chevrolet never came up with. I don't know of any other ways other then those I just mentioned. It will be interesting to hear if there are any other easier ways.

My '37 has a later model 250 engine, if I pull the water pump, the radiator will snake over the top of the engine and slide out sideways. Joe's way of pulling the front clip probably is the easiest way. When I wired my truck, I did not put a connector at the cab to disconnect the head lights and engine wires. This means my front clip will not come off without cutting or disconnecting the whole front wire harness. I have learned how to get the engine out by turning it and dropping the tail end, then pulling it out by it's nose!

Joe

6cyl & Joe: The engine is a 216. The truck is currently at a friends shop. He has a lot of extra space for me to work on the truck. I will be going
to his shop Saturday or Monday for sure, so I will decide which method to try then. Seems like GM could have factored Radiator Removal
in the design of the Grill Shell/Shroud. Many thanks for your input.

When I bought my truck it was in pieces. I found the grill shell top laying in the bed. If I would have know then what I know now, I would have made it a bolt in piece instead of welding it back in. Without the top plate, you could pull the hood off and the radiator would come right out the top.

You are exactly right Joe H.! The easiest way to pull the radiator would be to pull the top cover off of the radiator housing. It would come out without much trouble at all. If a person were to remove that top piece, bite the bullet and do a little welding and a small amount of metal work and some paint, you could form a piece that would screw on or bolt and could be easily removed. I have even looked around trying to find an old radiator housing to work with to see if there was a way to do it. I would consider doing it. I have actually gone on eBay to see if anything is out there a couple of times. If I could find a good cover piece on an old housing, I think I could figure some thing out.

I guess I shouldn't whine so much when I have to take the radiator out of my '40. It lifts out after taking the hood off.

Dennis

OK Guys, right or wrong I am going to remove all of the front sheet metal. Yesterday I went to my friends shop and contemplated all of your suggestions after which I made that "Executive Decision". Removed the bumper, hood and both fenders. Next trip, grill shroud then Radiator!
An added plus of this method will be no chance of damage to core fins during reassembly. "Nothing Left To Do Now But FINISH It" Will report progress/outcome later. Thanks

My '37 GMC just lifts out the top, too, however is heavy for one person.

Ed

Ed -
I'd like to see a picture of how that GMC is set up for the radiator to slip out the top. Since, in most cases Chevrolets and GMC's are alike, it would interesting to see how that is set up. If it's easier for you, you can send me some pics to : [email protected]
Thanks,
Joe

Joe,

My truck has no connection between the grille, core support, etc., which are attached by two spring loaded bolts at the base, two rods at the top, and the fenders. Each fender is supported by a front, middle and rear support bracket from the frame. The rear bracket has two elevator or step(I forgot which) bolts(looks like a flatter carriage bolt) which are visible at the aft end of the fender. The middle bracket(double tapered shape) bolts to a welded bracket on the inside of the fender(not visible from the outside.) The front bracket is lighter duty, but attached by some more of those bolts. Middle and rear brackets are about .25" by about 4".

These trucks are 'big cab' trucks with two individual swing-out windshields, and more legroom. Smaller trucks attach like Chevys, core support and cab sides.

My email is not operating just now, so this is the best there is for now, sorry.

Good luck.

Ed