The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop side vent installation

I'm restoring my 53 1ton and have a problem. I swapped a different cab and it appears to be from an earlier truck. It has a side vent on the drivers side, which I think was discontinued in 50 or 51. The problem is that the entire vent assembly is out of the body, and I don't know how it's supposed to go back in. I have the door, hinge, and lever assembly, and what looks to be a mounting plate. I think the mounting plate should be welded into the side of the cab, but I don't know exactly where, or how to get inside to weld it. Anybody ever dealt with this? The factory assembly manual I have is obviously for a later year, so has no information on this.
Thanks for any help.
Tim

If the inner mounting plate is loose you would have to open the inner cowl to weld it, there is no access to that area without removing and rewelding panels. The plate can be reattached with J-B Weld but you need to mark it and clamp it while it dries. I believe these were actually pressed on by the factory and they do come loose every so often. Good luck.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/12647382934/in/album-72157641244124604/

Brad, thanks so much! That picture was just what I needed! I looked closely at the bracket and saw a small area of metal welded to teh side. When I looked at the cab I found a matching area of metal missing from the edge of the vent hole. They matched perfectly, so I guess I know where it needs to go now. I can see that that area is difficult, if not impossible, to get into with a welder. I'm thinking that I will drill a few small holes in the cab and weld through them to attach the bracket. We'll see how it goes!
Tim

For a "correct" restoration, you should delete the side vent. Might be easier to just weld a patch over it and smooth over the welds with some body filler.

If you try to reweld the vent door bracket on, it will likely crack and fall off again. Welding sheet metal is hard enough when you have good access. You'll likely burn thru when trying to weld small sections of sheet metal. Then there's the issue of getting it lined up correctly in the first place to be able to weld it.

Your call on "correct" and what you decide, it is your truck. Cowl vents are cool and a great conversation piece. Good luck however you proceed.

Some further detail. I went through my parts stash and pulled a fender patch and spare vent (small bracket was sold off). In the picture you can clearly see the spot welds (one has pulled thru). Second picture shows vent in place and where bracket would match-up.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/34838095834/in/album-72157631868452754/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/35678935655/in/album-72157631868452754/
The two holes drilled in the vent had occurred on a few trucks I have seen/owned. It seems it was common to mount a two post antenna here and then make the short under dash run to a radio.

Another option is to remove the hinge from the door and glue the door semi-permanently to the hole with RTV sealant. Those side vents don't seem to move all that much air to begin with.

They "move" enough air (allow enough air flow) that I still miss it - my first A-D was a '48 panel, with left-side vent. It cooled my legs and lower body in warm/humid VA. My 54 Suburban was less comfortable for my lower body. The '48 gave my legs cross-flow ventilation (hood scoop and left side scoop).

I really like the idea of having the vent for air flow. Since there will be no air conditioning any air movement is good here in Missouri. As far as 'correct' I'm not that concerned about that. This will never be a show truck. I'll try welding it on, and if it doesn't work I'll see about modifying it.
Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. I'll let you know how it works out (although it will likely be several months before I am to the point in restoration where I will know).

Tim

The bracket on mine broke through the weld, so I was able to use the fracture as a locator. I sanded the areas around the fracture, on the bracket and the fender inside, to bare metal. Then I cleaned both surfaces and used JB Weld; clamped in place and let it sit for a day before removing the clamp. After a couple more days, I drilled and tapped through the fender and bracket, away from the original fracture. I used screws with more JB Weld, then ground them flush.

At best, it's a fix as opposed to a proper repair, but its held fast for a couple of years now. And I do like the additional air flow.

Bill