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Has anyone used a speedway 21 circuit wire harness in their 47-53 Chevy or gmc truck if so where was fuse block placement
Thanks for any and all help

What year? There were two fuse boxes during that time.

47-52

Assuming:

1. The old fuse boxes were mounted outside firewall.
2. The new box has the newer style fuses. (you are not trying to replicate exact original)
3. You want the box protected from heat and the environment.

Then:
You want the box mounted inside, usually upper left of your left foot. In a place that is somewhat accessible but out of the way.
Bolt in on and run your various harness branches "to and fro".
We will be glad to help as you progress.

Thanks I'm looking for ideas I filled in all the holes on the firewall and don't want any new ones so looking to see where others have mounted new fuse boxes I should have purchased the mini fuse block
Thank you keep ideas coming

If there are any bolts that come thru firewall threads, you can use longer bolts there, which create a stud inside. With spacers and nuts, you can mount the box to the "studs".
OR...You can find structure/holes inside that you can attach a bracket to. Attach box to your fabbed bracket.
OR... You can create your own studs with carriage bolts. Head to outside of firewall for a clean, flush look. This bolt is sometimes called a "Stovebolt". Apropos aye?
OR... You can rivet a bracket inside of firewall, rivet head on outside of firewall. Mount box to the bracket.

Your limiting yourself with the idea of no holes in firewall. The holes that you drill for the box will be filled by a bolt anyway. Is this a 5 star restoration? If it is, the box would be mounted outside on firewall.
I would assume you realize that mounting to firewall is very practical. Most boxes in the Stovebolt world are mounted to the firewall. Many kits include a bracket and instructions to do so.

Your harness runs to engine/front lights and to dash (gauges, switches, column are on the left) and to rear lights (only 4-5 wires). The central protected accessible distribution location is....... inside, upper left of your left foot.
Tim asked you what year, assume your username says it.

Chevy finally came to their senses and mounted the acid filled, fume generating battery outside cab and some corrosion sensitive electrical parts inside cab. Took them awhile. Electrical, and especially automotive electrical, was an emerging science.

A lot of people put it under the seat. I put mine under the dash left of the steering column

My truck is a 52 1/2 ton thanks for feed back would like to mount fuse block under seat but the wires would have to be extended to reach dash so I will have to make mounting bracket think off the steering column support bracket
Again thanks for feedback
Robert

That is a good decision. Nothing is easy. Gotta go with what fits your comfort zone.

Yeah, upper left of foot placement, those guys must have been midgets, normal foot size would works, try moving up higher.

Ed

Made a bracket today mounted fuse box on the support bracket from firewall to dash put a slight bend in my bracket so won't be completely upside down if I need to check or change a fuse

Hi Everyone,

Not to hijack the thread, but I have a related question.... I too am using the Speedway wire harness and have decided to mount it to the inside of the firewall of my 1953 3100. My question is do I have to remove a section of the padding that covers the firewall or can I just mount the fuse block directly over the padding? Either way it isn't a big deal, I just want to do it right. I am using one of the old fuse holder holes and a new hole for the second mounting bolt. It made it easy to run the new wires through the old grommets in the old locations. Thanks for the advice.

I'd use "standoffs" so it's not actually crushed against the pad to be tight

Bill

As Bill said, use spacers. Tubular, hex or other. Put a hole in the pad a little larger than the spacers. Putting a nice hole in an already installed pad is not all that easy. A drill will split the plastic, wind up the jute and rip it all out.

Possibly a soldering iron will do the trick with a standby water squirt bottle so the jute does not catch fire....or just heat up the spacer and melt thru. Squirt the jute right afterwards. It will dry later.

Thanks for the advice! Looks like a short trip to the hardware store and I'm back to work.