The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 261 Engine Rebuild

I have a 261 straight six engine out of my 1962 C10 and I wanted to get people's opinions on the best way to go about rebuilding it. I know that i want to put a V8 in my truck, but I still want to rebuild the 261 just for experience and so I can eventually sell it or maybe use it for another project in the future.

I have some specific questions about the whole thing,

1) Where should I attach the engine hoist to the engine
2) What are some company's that sell parts to rebuild a 261 (I've checked Egge's and was curious if there were any better/cheaper places.)
3) Are there any rebuild guides for this specific engine
4) Lastly, what is a rebuilt 261 worth? I don't want to spend too much more money than I'll be able to get out of it in the end.

If anyone has anything else that they think I should know I would appreciate it very much!

You might want to first ID the year of your engine.
It was most likely not standard equipment on a 1962 C10?

Then, buy a shop manual for that year.
The Links section has names of vendors.

Egge and Kanter should be able to supply parts.

https://egge.com/
https://www.kanter.com/
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1955,truck,3.8l+235cid+l6,1326361,engine

Check out RockAuto...it might surprise you that you'll be able to buy almost every part to rebuild a 261 from them.

Matt

I applaud you taking the initiative in rebuilding the 261.
As far as building it to sell it, you probably won't come out ahead. The machine work will eat up all of your lunch money (beer funds depending on your age group).
If I were in the market for a rebuilt 261, I would not pay any where near top dollar for one which wasn't rebuilt by a reputable professional engine rebuilder.
Welcome to the Bolt, BTW.
Carl

Thanks for the suggestions! My grandfather bought the truck in the 80's and has been sitting ever since. As far as he knows the engine is original, however once I get it out and clean it up I'll check again.

Running used 261's sell in the $500-600 range around here.

I think must buyers would rather start with a used runner and take it from there themselves. As Carl says, if you spend all the time and money rebuilding it you may be upside down when done.

That engine will do everything the V8 will do, why not rebuild it and put it back in the truck?

Mike B

Thank you! That's about what I figured, hopefully I won't be out more than a few hundred dollars, but who knows, it's been sitting for some 30 odd years, so wish me luck. . . javascript:void(0)

Hidiy Matt Skittles -
Is the 261 engine still in the truck? Your question about attachment point makes me think it is...

Why not let's see if it will run?
...It won't?

What have you tried?

You're in the right forum and the right place. I promise it's cheaper to try to get it running while it's still in the truck

Brad

I agree with the comments above that the machine work will end up costing you more than it will be worth, and that most people looking for a 261 would rather rebuild it themselves.... I just finished rebuilding my 261.

I agree with Uncle Brad (and, Dave), why not try to start it up?
However, the carburetor might be a problem, from sitting too long.

If you are looking to rebuild it (or, have it rebuilt) and then intend to sell it, I agree you will not get your money back (on a stovebolt or any other engine), unless you an professional engine-shop that can provide a written warranty.

If you intend to use that 261 (or, another stovebolt engine), rebuilding the 261 is no more expensive than rebuilding a 216/235.

I didn't ever try to start the engine, however I don't I would be able to due to the carburetor, it's trashed. Since I know that I won't be able to make any money off it (unless I were to sell it as is) the idea of rebuilding it and using it in my truck is sounding more and more appealing. That's what I wanted to do initially. I'm 100% sure that I won't be able to afford the rebuild and a V8.

Thanks everyone for being so helpful!

Yes it is still in my truck, I haven't tried to start it since the carb - as far as I can tell - is total junk. It's filthy and none of the moving parts seem to be in order. Not to mention the exhaust manifold is cracked into two separate pieces (something I didn't notice until yesterday).

Id at least do a compression check! What does the oil look like, coolant etc. Pull the plugs and turn it over, by hand if need be.

Can you post links to some pictures of the engine, carb and manifolds?

Hi Matt!

Apparently, we're in the same boat. My 261 is out of the truck and upside down on the stand ready for crankshaft removal. I wonder how many others are rebuilding 261s at the same time as us?

Matt Skittles... not to belittle your knowledge at all (just trying to help & don't know your background/knowledge/blood type, etc) but where is the exhaust manifold cracked?
The exhaust & intake manifolds are two separate pieces. Hopefully, that's the "two separate" pieces you're seeing.

Get some degreasers (purple, green, whatever) sprayed on the engine & wash it off. Cover up the nasty carb & any other engine openings.

Brad

Edit -and do what Norcal Dave says; we all like to help

John, I've got one under construction. Block on the engine stand, parts painted, head finished and ready to install, 261 Rochester B rebuilt and ready, and all the new stuff lined up and ready to go.

I found a short block literally partially buried in the Arizona desert. First thing I had to do was blow sand out of the cylinders because they were full to the top! It's a 1966 replacement block that had been bored .060 over. It was locked up hard because the cylinders had rusted badly and frozen the pistons into place. Couldn't break them free even with lots of advice from Hotrod Lincoln, so I tore down the bottom end then knocked the pistons out through the top with a 2x2 block of wood and a big hammer.

Everything on the bottom end was in great shape. Water never got into it. A very large lizard had crawled up inside through the open oil plug and mummified inside the oil pan. I have not idea how it ever fit inside! Made me jump when I dropped the pan and saw it. Darn thing was about a foot long and two inches fat at the belly.

The cylinders were pitted, so my local machinist tried boring the worst two .100 over to see if that would remove the pitting. (If anyone is interested, I confirmed that Egge has .100 pistons and rings available and in stock.) The boring removed the pitting, but the rings still showed slight shadows where they had frozen to the cylinder walls that could just barely be felt with a fingernail, so the machinist sleeved all six cylinders back to standard bore. Total cost for the sleeve job was $510 instead of $85 for a rebore.

There have been posts in the past in which others have expressed concern about boring a 261 beyond .060 due to the thinner cylinder walls. I have one that is bored .080 over, and when my machinist did the test boring mentioned above at .100 on the two cylinders, he had no concerns about whether or not there was enough metal left on the cylinder walls. I would have run the .100 pistons and rings if the old rings hadn't left scars on the walls. Sleeving the engine required boring all six cylinders out beyond .100 to accommodate the sleeves, and there was no problem doing that and fitting the sleeves.

Good luck with your project,

Matt

Sure thing, here's some photos,
[img]https://www.flickr.com/photos/cheesybrickcustoms/35531890045/in/dateposted/[/img]

[img]https://www.flickr.com/photos/cheesybrickcustoms/34690533674/in/photostream/[/img]

[img]https://www.flickr.com/photos/cheesybrickcustoms/35531894255/in/photostream/[/img]

[img]https://www.flickr.com/photos/cheesybrickcustoms/34690525724/in/photostream/[/img]

Sorry if some of the photos are a little blurry, I was a little rushed because I wanted to get back inside of my cool house (It's been in the triple digits here for about a week).

As you can see, the exhaust manifold is broken in two. I took off the one piece because I was inspecting everything and I saw the crack, I wanted to see if it was totally broken off or if it was just a fracture in the metal.

Uncle Brad, I wish that I was just seeing where the two bolt together, sadly I don't think I am . . .

I also checked the casting number on the cylinder head and it matches up with an engine made between 58-62 according to this site,

Old Chevy Trucks Forgotten 261

Here are locations of head block date casting codes.

You might as well determine/confirm the year.

I'll check that out later today, I have a few errands to run.

I was wondering, does anyone know the dimensions of the headbolts on a 261?