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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,094 Posts1,056,064 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,362 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,362 | First of all, my 3600 rides and drives fine. I've gone to 215/85/16 radial tires and it has a steel Clark flatbed with low mileage shocks at all corners.
The problem is the 65 year old springs have sagged a bit, making the truck set lower than I like. Now I realize the softer than l like suspension along with the flat beds weight does contribute to the nice ride but it just doesn't look right for a 3/4 ton.
Not wanting to totally screw up the suspension/steering geometry I'm NOT even considering flipping the front axle, but I am thinking about making up some 3" or so blocks for both ends.
On the rear I'm considering air bags for the occasional load of fire wood or hay. If I go with a pair of bags, then no blocks in the back.
New springs or have the existing tired springs re-arched is currently not on the table.
Any comments on how much lift I can add without making it a bear to drive are appreciated. I do realize adjustments will have to be made with even a mild lift.
Thanks, Ron
Last edited by moparguy; 01/25/2017 3:47 PM.
RonR
1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear 1970 340 Duster 1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain) 1964 CJ5
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,792 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,792 | The simple fix would be to add a leaf or two to the spring pack on both sides of the front. Adding rear leaves will make the rear end very bouncy when unloaded, so air bags might be a better choice back there. You might need longer U bolts, depending on how much thread is left sticking out of the nuts at the moment. You'll definitely need to replace the center bolt in the spring, since there's usually no extra length available there.
If you change the ride height enough to get the drag link out of level, be prepared for bump steer problems. That gets into e$$$pensive modifications of the steering gear position. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 A teacher, but always an apprentice. | | A teacher, but always an apprentice. Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 | Ron, When I replaced the front leaf packs in my 1 ton it picked up the front end 2"! The springs were sacked out. Broken, cracked, flat. It really changed the look of my truck when I replaced them and that was with new custom built to stock specs springs. It's a viable option if you're concerned about geometry and such. Plus, just parking a big old brute beside a 1/2 ton will get attention at the shows! I know mine does. 😉
Mind you, I haven't completed mine yet, nor have I driven it since I replaced the springs. I suspect it's going to ride like a brute too 😕
Last edited by Fox; 01/27/2017 5:00 AM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I am thinking about making up some 3" or so blocks for both ends. Blocks on the rear would be ok, but you NEVER want to put blocks on a front axle. Too much stress involved with the steering.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | I took my leaf springs to local 'old school' spring shop, first thing per the expert was to make a new main leaf, which helped a lot. I'd also consider a pair of air schocks in the rear, that way you can add or subtract the air charge as you need. Good luck | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 334 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2005 Posts: 334 | If you're interested, St. Louis Spring (St. Louis, MO) does a good job making new springs to spec and for a good price. I've used them and was very satisfied. Samantha | | | | | Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,362 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,362 | Well, seems that little nagging voice that lives in the background was right, blocks are easy but far from the best solution.
Plan now is bags in rear, spring work for the front. I'll work on the exact spring plan as I get closer to moving back into the shop. The past several weeks have been devoted to working in/on the house.
RonR
1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear 1970 340 Duster 1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain) 1964 CJ5
| | | | | Joined: May 2017 Posts: 20 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2017 Posts: 20 | I'm adding Spring Assisted - Shocks Good for Leveling Up and taking an Inch of Sag Out . The Spring Assisted give an Inch of Light Spring Travel good for all those sudden Dips ans Ripples in road - which are Jarring with Old Flat Springs about Bottomed out . | | |
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