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#1219698 06/02/2017 2:00 AM
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 307
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'Bolter
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I replaced the master cylinder on my 58 step van and the brake pedal only goes down only slightly. The last cylinder was dead and I had no brakes, so I'm unsure of correct brake pedal travel. The brake light switch is now unable to trip because of the short travel of the pedal. should I adjust the bracket that places the switch in the pedals path? Maybe too much fluid? I sure would appreciate any comments or suggestions. Thanks, Chaz


1958 Chevy Grumman Olson step van
Joined: Mar 2004
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M
'Bolter
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Before you replaced the MC did the truck roll and stop?

Are any of the wheel cylinders frozen up?

Mike B smile



Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
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Silver Spring, MD
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Did you adjust the rod that pushes the MC piston so the pressure in the brake lines can release as the pedal hits the stop? After a few brake applications you might be getting a solid stack of fluid from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders, the pedal will be very high, and all the brakes will drag.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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'Bolter
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Thanks guys, I'll take a second look tomoorow.



1958 Chevy Grumman Olson step van
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 307
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'Bolter
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Hey Jerry, I think your deduction is the most plausable. I found the return spring was worn out and now have a new one installed. The pedal is very high, and brake only goes down maybe a couple inches. How can I reduce the stack of fluid? Bleed? Thank you, Chaz


1958 Chevy Grumman Olson step van
Chaz 58 #1219805 06/02/2017 11:51 PM
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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First, adjust the master cylinder pushrod so it takes about 3/4" to 1" of pedal travel before the M/C piston starts to move. To get the pressure off the system, crack any one of the bleeder screws open at one of the wheels and you'll probably get a quick squirt of fluid. John's fire truck was doing the same thing at the Homecoming, and shortening the pushrod a little solved the problem. Good luck!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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5
Renaissance Man
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Shouldn't simply adjusting the push rod to the correct length allow the piston in the master cylinder to return to the fully released position, exposing the port allowing the fluid to return to the reservoir?

Last edited by 52Carl; 06/03/2017 2:24 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Yes, theoretically. If there's more than one problem, like a collapsed flex hose, for instance, it might be necessary to vent a wheel cylinder. The problem will come back even with the right M/C stroke if that happens but only one or two brakes will drag.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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Shop Shark
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does the new master cylinder have the same bore as the old one? If the new one has a larger bore it will move more brake fluid per stroke. just thinkin


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