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| | | | Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 326 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 326 | Whille driving the truck for the first time the other day I noticed that the realease bearing is making noise. I have to pull the drive shaft to replace a differential seal, so I guess I will drop the transmission too and go into the clutch. My questions are, should I replace the whole clutch assembly while I am there? I would presume it is the original clutch, though it seems to work fine. And should I replace the clutch pilot bearing? Is it doable without any special tools?
Thanks, Lee.
1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 | My personal rule is......... if I'm going to tear into something I'm going to replace everything in there while I'm at it. Goes double for these old trucks.ðŸ›
Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 592 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 592 | It can be done without any special tools with the exception of a clutch alignment tool, but one will be included with your clutch kit.
If you have the SM420 four speed, it is harder to wrestle out of the way than a three speed.
Others might disagree, but unless you are having trouble with the pilot bushing, I'd leave it alone if you are changing the clutch working under the truck. It is not an easy task done laying on your back. Much easier to replace when the engine is out of the truck.
Matt | | | | | Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 326 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 326 | Thanks for the information, I have three on the tree and will be doing all this while on my back.
1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 23 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 23 | If you do decide to take the pilot bushing out, the easiest way I've found is to use a 5/8" coarse thread tap. Find an 8-point socket (3/8?) and run it in. It will take less than a minute to get it out. I've seen guys pack the cavity full of bearing grease and a rod or bolt to beat the snot out of it to remove one, but the tap works easy and quickly every time. Thanks for the information, I have three on the tree and will be doing all this while on my back.
Don't pay no mind to that whirrin' sound, she uses a little oil but outsida' that she's cherry.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | I agree to replace or at least check(requires clutch r&r) pilot bushing or bearing.
Ed
Last edited by EdPruss; 06/01/2017 4:21 AM.
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 326 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 326 | Thanks for the info, I was a little late seeing redline's post before I found a utube video where bread was used to push the bushing out. It worked quite well, but not as easily as the tap probably would have. Not much room to swing a hammer under the truck, but it really did not take a lot of force to push it out. New clutch is in and transmission is back installed too. Thanks to all for your help.
1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
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