The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Welding patches

Hi All!
I need some help in understanding the process of welding in patches. I know a lot of how you do it is dependent on where the panel is, if it is flanged, if it is lapped or butted and so forth. But my question is basic to all. Is it necessary to weld around the entire patch? I have seen patch panel that are stitch welded through punced holes with no additonal welding. I have seen panels that are cut to fit and butt welded every inch or so then filled and I have seen butted panels welded the entire way around the patch. So I guess my question is, is it more common to weld around the entire border of a patch or to weld it every inch or so. I hope I have said this well enough that you can see what I want to know! Thanks a bunch
Rick In VA

Rick,
patch panels come in many forms.. Sometimes there are edges that are spotwelded in the original construction. These edges are usually secured with plug welds that act very similar to the original welds. For most of the other edges, butt welds usually employed and they are continuous. Sometimes on low crown panels, a flange is made and the panel is lapped on top of the flange. This arrangement lends itself to the use of adhesive, if desired.

Hi Truckernix,
I do not have a MIG or TIG welder so I will be welding in the patches with an Oxy Acet torch. Now to apply that to my problem. Pieces of the floor pan are rusted out. I could cut out the rusted part, trim the panel to just fit, and try to tack it all around, then weld it in all the way around praying it doesn't warp.. Or, I could overlap the patch, drill holes and stitch weld the patch in. Or I could flange the floor and put the patch in the flange and stitch weld. I never plan to show the truck so doing it the original way doesn't matter. Is there any harm in my plan?
Rick

I used MIG on my cab, which is just what I have. Sometimes when I was fitting a floor patch, I would tack small pieces to two of the edges and this would allow the piece to rest in place while I tacked it in place.

You'll have to be carefull with the gas rig. If you heat those panels up a bunch they can warp. You might want to put some heat dam goo on there. With thin panels I have used a copper spoon to wick away heat with my MIG.

Sorry about piggybacking on this post, but it is related... My 65 stepside is ready to be cut and patched. I need a welder, and am considering one of those $125 110 volt mig welders from Harbor Freight, or similar el-cheapo catalog. Would it serve me well?

Thanks... Jerry in Cleve.

jerry, I have the Harbor Fright 220 mig,,I have it set up w/argon/CO2,,works well for what it is,,not as smooth as a name brand but welds metal together just fine,,I would go for the 220 welder,,brian

Jerry,

In order to weld the sheet metal on these rigs, your MIG welder should be setup to run thin (.023) wire and shielding gas.

The standard floor model at places like Harbor Freight are great..EXCEPT, in an effort to keep the price down, they are outfitted to run flux cored wire and have no gas capabilities.

Flux cored wire is fine, but requires a higher amperage to work properly, and this equates to holes burned through your 19 gauge sheet metal.

Shop for a small 120 volt machine, but make sure it has the ability to run a shielding gas, which allows you to run solid wire at a lower amperage...it will give you a cleaner weld too!


Stuart

Home depot was by far better I got a lincoln weld pak 100 which is perfect for home. They have a 150 that is much better. also, do yourself a favor and get a auto change helmet no more flipping your lid up and down.

I bought a Hobart 140 and love it. Got it on sale at a local farm supply store for around $400.00. Also bought an auto change helmet that really saves time when welding.

i have a little Lincoln 110V fluxcore, and it does the job just fine.

are the welds pretty? no.
are there issues with amperage controls and burn thoughs related to that? yes.

does it do the job? YES.


i'm already done the cab, the doors, front fenders, and inner fenders with the thing, and it has yet to fail me.


now. i'm a teenager. which screams, "cheaper is better". i know, you can't replace quality.

but, just from my experience...they work. it may take more time, and you have to employ different techniques, such as welding spoons, but...

it does the job.

just like our trucks were designed to.

.later days.
.sam.

sorry im no body man but im full time welder
and if i had choice between a 110 mig or oxy i would buy the mig but make sure u get the gas suited ones if your need get biger you can sell it and up grade

if you just had a about a weekend worth of work how about renting

what ever you do, dont try to "learn how to weld" on your bolt... get some junk sheet metal to practice on first...

I started with a small hole, and immediately made it much bigger!!! I'll try again with gas..

Thanks all for the comments on welders! Once I buy one I am sure I will be chiming in again with questions...

I will check out the Lincolns. Lincoln Electric is based in Cleveland and assuming they make the Lincoln welders referred too, I would prefer to buy from the local company. I will get 110v. since I don't have a 220 line in the garage, altho I could run a 220 extension from the basement.

Jerry