The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 230 won't fire, am I missing something?

Had a spare 230 of unknown condition sitting around. Thought rather than scrap it I'd see if it ran first and use it in a doodle bug project. After going through it for a couple of days, I still can't get it to show any signs of life. I'm quite certain I have spark, enough compression, and fuel. What am I missing? The only time it's shown a fire is when I mix up the plugs and I got fireball out the exhaust and a couple backfires through the carb. Here is what I've done.

FUEL: using a gravity flow can, tried two different carbs. Used starting fluid down the throat and shot in to spark plug holes.

IGNITION: new wires/cables/coil/plugs/condensor cleaned and set points to fire at TDC on #1. Getting spark at the plugs. Getting 12v at distributor. Not 180d out, have watched for #6 exhaust to close and visually checked #1 to top. Also borrowed cap and wires from running 292.

COMPRESSION: Set the rockers according to tech tip. Getting oil on top. Used a few squirts of oil in plug holes before cranking.

If I mess with the order I can usually get something to fire but not when it's set up. One thing I have noticed is fuel vapor coming up through crankcase. I imagine it's blow by but seems excessive. All 6 spark holes have pretty good compression with finger check, no dead cylinders. Also pulled pan and no debris or cracked cylinders that I can see. Also the coolant and oil appear not to be cross contaminated.

I have the 153624 firing order set with the plug sparking at TDC. I would think it would at least cough once? What am I missing?

Can't offer you a solution but you must stop using starting fluid. Way too easy to wash down the cylinder walls or much worse blow the top out of a piston. Just use fresh gas in small quantities down the carb throat. As a SWAG I think your timing is off somewhere. Even the best mechanics make a mistake once in a while. You'll figure it out.🛠

Have you "static timed" the spark? Get the timing mark lined up under the tab at about 10 degrees before top dead center (crankshaft stopped, obviously) and turn the distributor housing clockwise until the points close. Back up CCW until they just barely open. Lock the distributor down. The timing should be close enough to start there.

Another way is to use an ice pick voltage test light. Ground the wire, and touch the pick to the terminal at the side of the distributor with the ignition switch on and the points closed. The light will not burn. Turn the housing CCW until the light just comes on, indicating the points have barely opened. Button everything up and crank it up!

When the #6 exhaust valve closes, the distributor rotor should be pointing to the #1 plug wire.
Jerry

Thanks for the tips. Static timed it and reset distributor. Gave it a whirl and got noticeable smoke/vapor coming out of rod holes from crankcase but little if anything from the exhaust outlet. Draws pretty good suction through carb. I don't hear or feel anything like detonation but it is apparently smoking from the crankcase. Must have no rings or missed something obvious with pan off.

I know you said that you have the firing order correct on the cap. Just double check that the rotor is turning the way you have wired up the firing order. BTDT

SimS