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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 25 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 25 | I have a GM tilt wheel in my '53. Hired someone to wire it and he's gone in the wind! Anyway my turn signals only work when lights are off. When I turn lights on, turn signals just light up, no blinking. What's up electrical gurus?
Last edited by '53 Truck Chuck; 04/05/2017 4:48 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 186 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 186 | At first read I'd say the' gone in the wind' wiring guy screwed up! Now, unfortunately you will have to find someone to do it right. Not being able to physically look at,it will be impossible to tell you what's wrong. Being that it is a newer column in your truck there are to many variables to consider. Someone on here many have a wiring diagram drawn up from their project, that would help. Good luck!
Last edited by Quindel54; 04/05/2017 3:08 PM. Reason: Spelling
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,303 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,303 | They may actually be blinking, but the wattage of the running light filaments may be overpowering the turn signal filaments, making them indiscernible. Another possibility is that the whizzing-in-wind guy put both tail light wire and blinker wire to the same filament. Take off the lens cover, pull the bulbs, and use an ice pick-style test light to check each contact as an assistant turns on the lights and blinkers for you. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 25 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 25 | | | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 25 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 25 | | | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 25 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 25 | Thanks, Carl. All are LEDs. Would that make a difference? I'll try anything at this point.
Chuck | | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 25 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 25 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,303 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,303 | LEDs are out of my league. Good luck to you though.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 13 | juice going to the wrong filaments. switch the wires on them. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 2,237 Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part | | Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 2,237 | I had same issue. I agree with Dbs. You Will also need no load flashers to make them blink. I had 2 issues as a first time wired. 1. The ground is actually the bolt holding the body in place. 2. The second was that I had wires backwards.
This does not include the issues I had due to wire harness didn't work with my blinker switch.
Chris
Last edited by ndkid275; 04/09/2017 9:44 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2017 Posts: 124 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2017 Posts: 124 | Your fix may be as simple as changing the flasher relay. Most LED bulbs don't have enough resistance to make a standard old school flasher work. If everything else is the way it should be, changing to an electronic flasher may solve the problem.
38 Chevy 1/2 ton being resto-moded 65 AC Cobra replica USAF vet
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | '53 Truck Chuck,
Is your electrical system the original 6v positive ground, or have you converted to 12v negative ground? | | |
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