Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
0 members (),
115
guests, and
4
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,096 Posts1,056,482 Members48,444 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 | I thought the 3rd time disassembling and carefully reassembling the torque tube ball would cure my leaks but I have been less than successful. Although it hardly leaks now, at least what I can see on my garage floor, I have no idea if and how much it may be leaking while driving. If I stick something flexible into the fill hole to measure oil level is there an acceptable level to run it at before refilling? If I hadn't been so optimistic about 3rd time being the charm I would have measured it after the initial fill and had a better idea of what it should be. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2012 Posts: 306 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2012 Posts: 306 | Hookalatch, ** It is my understanding the torque tube ball gets the oil directly from the transmission. Service the trans to the overflow plug on r/h front of trans. Drive the truck long enough to make sure the ball has what it wants. Service the trans again and drive again. Measure how much it takes to fill the trans the third time is the amount that has leaked out. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | You fill, when warm, up to the fill hole on side of the transmission.
If "cold/cool", fill to about 1/2" below the fill hole on the side of the transmission.
You might have to check the level in the transmission a few times after opening/closing-sealing the torque-tube ball. It take a little time for the transmission oil to level out from the transmission back to the ball; AND, you most likely will leak/drip a little (I carry/use a disposable diaper, to keep drips off people's' driveways). | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,096 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,096 | The torque tube ball is lubed with 1/2 pint trans oil on assembly , after that the oil level is controlled by the quantity of oil that goes thru the rear bearing .
Constant refilling (according to your shop manual) is not required. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,286 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,286 | Is your torque ball and transmission tail piece socket polished smooth? If so, did you test the amount of effort it takes to move the ball without the gasket in place? This shimming procedure is a pain due to all of the assembly/disassembly/reassembly, but it is the only way to keep them from leaking. They all will develop leaks over time, but it shouldn't leak from day one after you properly reseal one. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 246 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 246 | After filling the tranny with lube thru the upper fill hole, put the plug back in and remove the tranny speedo gear and add another 2 cups (pint) of lube. My 53 truck shop manual says to use the speedo hole on page 4-52.... Fill until the lube starts to drip out of the speedo hole, approx 2 cups. Be sure to warm up the lube,I usually put the unopened container into "really " hot water to thin it out so it pours easier. I also use a funnel with a long flex spout going thru the floor access tunnel.
1953 chevy 1/2 ton with 3 speed 318 on floor and 1955 235 engine
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 | Thanks for all the replies. I filled (possibly over-filled) my trans to the point the oil was starting to come back out the fill hole some time ago. I have checked it each time I have re-done the ball seal and it has not gone down much. This is over a span of about 2000 miles. When I first put the truck together I had painted the ball. This is when it leaked the worst. The second time I cleaned all the paint off and had to replace the u-joint because it was galled. Either oil is not coming from the trans or it was leaking too fast. The ball leaking greatly diminished after this. The 3rd time was during an attempt to attack all the minor oil leaks in the truck. I spent a lot of time sanding the ball down to 1000 grit. That seemed like overkill but I could get a silver color and the sandpaper so I kept at it. I do check the shimming each time since I have to remove the u-joint and drop the torque tube each time to replace the seals and gaskets.
I think I will just proceed with the thought that as long as I have a small leak there must be enough oil. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | The 1948-1955st Truck Shop Manuals have the same instructions as posted by zoegrant (after a u-joint cover has been opened and gear-oil drained) "Remove speedometer gear and fill housing with transmission lubricant." (in Chapter 4)
The same manuals have the following instructions in Chapter 0, General Lubrication (1/2 ton trucks): - Universal joint . . . receives lubrication from the transmission. Additional lubrications is not necessary. - This type of lubrication is on 1/2 ton vehicles. - The universal joint housing should be filled through the pipe plug hole for initial lubrication after a repair operation.
go figure - either way should work - watch for drips (fill as deemed necessary - either way/level )
| | |
| |