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#1208405 03/13/2017 11:00 PM
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
I thought the 3rd time disassembling and carefully reassembling the torque tube ball would cure my leaks but I have been less than successful. Although it hardly leaks now, at least what I can see on my garage floor, I have no idea if and how much it may be leaking while driving. If I stick something flexible into the fill hole to measure oil level is there an acceptable level to run it at before refilling? If I hadn't been so optimistic about 3rd time being the charm I would have measured it after the initial fill and had a better idea of what it should be.

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 306
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 306
Hookalatch, ** It is my understanding the torque tube ball gets the oil directly from the transmission. Service the trans to the overflow plug on r/h front of trans. Drive the truck long enough to make sure the ball has what it wants. Service the trans again and drive again. Measure how much it takes to fill the trans the third time is the amount that has leaked out.

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
You fill, when warm, up to the fill hole on side of the transmission.

If "cold/cool", fill to about 1/2" below the fill hole on the side of the transmission.

You might have to check the level in the transmission a few times after opening/closing-sealing the torque-tube ball. It take a little time for the transmission oil to level out from the transmission back to the ball; AND, you most likely will leak/drip a little (I carry/use a disposable diaper, to keep drips off people's' driveways).

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,096
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,096
The torque tube ball is lubed with 1/2 pint trans oil on assembly , after that the oil level is controlled by the quantity of oil that goes thru the rear bearing .

Constant refilling (according to your shop manual) is not required.

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,286
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,286
Is your torque ball and transmission tail piece socket polished smooth?
If so, did you test the amount of effort it takes to move the ball without the gasket in place? This shimming procedure is a pain due to all of the assembly/disassembly/reassembly, but it is the only way to keep them from leaking.
They all will develop leaks over time, but it shouldn't leak from day one after you properly reseal one.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 246
Z
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
Z Offline
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 246
After filling the tranny with lube thru the upper fill hole, put the plug back in and remove the tranny speedo gear and add another 2 cups (pint) of lube. My 53 truck shop manual says to use the speedo hole on page 4-52....
Fill until the lube starts to drip out of the speedo hole, approx 2 cups.
Be sure to warm up the lube,I usually put the unopened container into "really " hot water to thin it out so it pours easier. I also use a funnel with a long flex spout going thru the floor access tunnel.


1953 chevy 1/2 ton with 3 speed 318 on floor and 1955 235 engine
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
Thanks for all the replies. I filled (possibly over-filled) my trans to the point the oil was starting to come back out the fill hole some time ago. I have checked it each time I have re-done the ball seal and it has not gone down much. This is over a span of about 2000 miles. When I first put the truck together I had painted the ball. This is when it leaked the worst. The second time I cleaned all the paint off and had to replace the u-joint because it was galled. Either oil is not coming from the trans or it was leaking too fast. The ball leaking greatly diminished after this. The 3rd time was during an attempt to attack all the minor oil leaks in the truck. I spent a lot of time sanding the ball down to 1000 grit. That seemed like overkill but I could get a silver color and the sandpaper so I kept at it. I do check the shimming each time since I have to remove the u-joint and drop the torque tube each time to replace the seals and gaskets.

I think I will just proceed with the thought that as long as I have a small leak there must be enough oil.

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
The 1948-1955st Truck Shop Manuals have the same instructions as posted by zoegrant (after a u-joint cover has been opened and gear-oil drained) "Remove speedometer gear and fill housing with transmission lubricant." (in Chapter 4)

The same manuals have the following instructions in Chapter 0, General Lubrication (1/2 ton trucks):
- Universal joint . . . receives lubrication from the transmission. Additional lubrications is not necessary.
- This type of lubrication is on 1/2 ton vehicles.
- The universal joint housing should be filled through the pipe plug hole for initial lubrication after a repair operation.


go figure - either way should work - watch for drips (fill as deemed necessary - either way/level )



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