The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop OIL FILTER INSTALL ON 1953 1/2 TON TRUCK

I have a bypass filter I want to install on my truck, it is the style that bolts to the manifold.
Is there anything special I should know before installing it ???
How much oil should I put in the filter before starting the engine ???
Any good hints at keeping the rubber lines away from the exhaust manifold ??
Do you think my oil pressure will drop by installing the bypass filter ???

Install it towards the front of the intake manifold giving enough room for the generator/alternator and manifold mounted horn. Mount it with "U" bolts supplied? Add about a quart of oil, 1/2 in the filter and 1/2 in the crankcase. Make sure all oil line are flexible and route them away from the exhaust manifold. The bottom line on the filter goes to the crankcase return fitting towards the front of the header pipe and the fitting on the side of the filter goes to the oil pressure fitting behind the exhaust header. You may need to get some various brass fittings to help with routing. Move the hoses and fittings around to get clearance away from the header pipe. Your oil pressure will not drop with the filter, you may pick up a pound or two. I believe there is instructions on mounting a bypass filter on the internet? Also check the treads under SEARCH on this forum for mounting bypass oil filter. tclederman (Tim) has a good photo and instruction sheet. Make sure you use the PROPER filter cartridge.

Tim

This may help for a visual.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/15652083208/in/album-72157631868452754/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129067943/in/album-72157631867396207/

If you have an AC/GM by-pass oil filter, there should be installation instructions and photos/illustrations here.

Here is how I avoided the issue of rubber lines getting burned on hot surfaces. Check out the image I posted on 11/12/16.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1190625/1.html

Thank you Tim & Brad....always appreciate your input

If you don't have the ubolts with the filter, I recommend that you use muffler clamps. Measure the manifold, but I think that they are 2 1/8". Don't use 2" hardware store ubolts because they won't be the exact size and you'll have trouble getting them over the manifold and then fitting the holes in the canister bracket. You can get the exact size you need if you use muffler clamps.

Since you are mounting it to the engine, you can plumb it with hard lines. I use 1/4" OD copper tubing and compression fittings. Easy to bend and available at any home improvement or hardware store. This eliminates the problems of the rubber hoses.

It is my understanding that rubber lines were included with the kits for a few reasons. One is that they are aftermarket installations, so there is always some wiggle room in how they would be installed and the rubber lines would make for a faster/easier installation. Another is that the kits were for several vehicles/engines, so the lines needed to be universal. And sometimes the canisters were not mounted on the engines (e.g. firewall). This would have required vibration isolation which would have been easier to do with rubber lines instead of creating coils in hard lines.

Food for thought,

Matt

Another data point.....GMC amounts the filter on the right side

[IMG]http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/pp70/showkey_bucket/IMG_1928_zpswnqi12k5.jpg[/IMG]

Matt...I do have the clamps & bolts so I will be using those. I do like the idea of the solid plumbing. I might do that in instead of the rubber hoses. I will install the rubber hoses first as I already have them, to see exactly how close to the exhaust they would be.
If any chance of a problem, I will run hard lines....thanks

I used steel lines too. However the routing I used makes it difficult to get a catch container under the can from the top of the motor. That may be something you want to think about when making your lines.