The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop how to get that show room paint look

How do I get the truck to look like it just came off the showroom floor? I want this truck looking its BEST and I have all the time in the world to work on it. After sanding the pieces down to the metal and putting 2 coats of epoxy primer on it, whats next? What all is involved to get that show room paint look? Can someone give me a breakdown or a good website that shows what all I need to do in steps?

Thanks!

hEY Blake whats next is a very very long road of pain, finger bleeding back aching frustration,regret,anger,disbelief in god, and why did I take this @$%#&*ing job on!road. still want to here how it's done? :confused:

Yep, I have no job, plenty of money, and plenty of time on my hands. Whats next?

I mean, I don't need a million dollar paint job, but I want it to be really smooth and really shiny when I'm done.

I always felt as I was wet sanding as you ran the water over any knick, dent, ding scratch it will show as water is is allowed to fall over. The water will ripple in any area that is out of whack. Lots of filling ,lots of primer. even more time. Did I say patience???? All above will pay off prior any type/kind paint

Dan

blake, do you have a barnes & noble book store near you .i found some books in the automotive section that were very detailed for paint& body in that they had lots of pics and tips. remember there is no such thing as too much info ----------------block sanding lots and lots

Good morning Blake! well your off to a good start with the epoxy,best thing to have on the bottom,cause it stays there.chev46 has a good tip on checking the panel for imperfections,but I perfer to use wax and grease remover in a spray bottle,one of those presurized gardening types.what Im trying to say is after your body work is done primed then blocked,felt oh so carfully with your unemployed hand :p thinking you've got it! spray it with the wax and grease remover and look at it from all angles,different light angles and so on.keep doing this untill you can't find any ripples waves dips scratches etc.start on one panel and finish it!!!! then put it away and move to the next (DO NOT JUMP FROM PANEL TO PANEL)

Lets see, "showroom" paint for a 52. That would include orange peel, a few "dull spots" where they didn't get good coverage at the factory, and maybe even a run or two and a little trash in the paint.

Bob

So since I already have epoxy on, can I go ahead and put body filler in places that need it? When do I put my PPG primer on? Does it matter when? I was thinking about doing it in this order:

Since it's already got epoxy on it, go ahead and start blocking it, then putting body filler in, then sanding, then more body filler, sanding, sanding, primer, then my base coats if all perfections are fixed. Is this about right? Thanks

Blake,

Here is a posting about the purposes and characteristics of different painting products.

The information above was posted by MARTINSR and you could search in this directory for his superb postings about painting, "Basics of Basics" on different topics. Here is a search that should give results that you should look through: MARTINSR\'s "Basics of Basics".

Tim

Thanks so much!

Blake, Look into the "paintucation" DVD series. They are very helpfull!

http://www.leopardsystems.com/paint...amp;sid=3ab15cd80e24011c9a14d384fbb469b6

Yah thats about right ,except before the base you shoould use a good non sanding sealer that goes on right before you base!

I believe you and I are polar opposites, you see, I have a job, have no money, and no time on my hands. I'll help you w/painting if you help me get into your type of situation.

Ditto PAKRAT48!

Blake, get a can of cheap spray paint (white primer-black paint) and give your primer a lite mist When you sand any little ding will still have paint and show up. Use a good two part filler followed by a two part spot filler feathering is out about two inches, don,t use a cheap single stage putty. Chean with prep wash, wax and grease remover has solvents which can be soak up in the filler and can cause problem later. I use a 2k urethane primer after that and 2k paint.
Jeff

Blake what Barney is talking about is (guide coat)this will help you see what you are sanding.Problem with using spray bombs as guide coats is most of them are laquer based,and if not all of the guide coat is sanded off it can cause problems when it comes to painting.I like to use base coat or a graphite powder as a guide coat, both of these are compatable with the paint systems these days.One more thing ,filler will absorbe any moisture, keep all moisture away from filler unless you get some oil or heavey contaminates on an area,wash that area only and dry with air.When filler work is done prime immediately