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| | | Forums66 Topics128,164 Posts1,056,968 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 | I have read every post on updating tie rods and have learned a lot. I have a 3/4 ton and it has tie rod ball studs with a taper. This means that all updated tie rod ends will not fit in the tapered holes of the steering knuckles. (they fit the 1/2 tons) The 1/2 ton steering knuckles have the untapered holes when the ball studs are removed, but not sure if they are a direct bolt on to the 3/4 ton without changing steering geometry. Does anyone know this information.
At the moment I am scrambling as I disassembled with the thought that the new parts would fit my 3/4 ton. Please help. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Tried NAPA? Some years of the 3/4 and 1 ton AD trucks already came with "modern" tie rod ends, an improvement from the old type that you can take apart.
Hard to understand your situation as described but wonder if you just need stock replacements for your size truck? | | | | | Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 | 1954 came with the 2 part tie rods. In reading forums I thought the ball studs were pressed in and I cut them off and one of the original casings is damaged as well. So I could go to the junkyard to find a casing and replacement ball studs. However, the tapered ball studs are hard to find in good shape.
If the steering arm that attaches to the back of the hub is interchangeable between 1/2 and 3/4 ton, I can use the modern ends I already bought with the other steering arm.
The only other options I can think of would be to find a modern tie rod with a taper or to drill out the steering arm to a straight hole and fabricate something like a sleeve to make the modern tie rod fit. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | "1954 came with the 2 part tie rods." The 1954 1/2 and 3/4 ton tie rod was one part (one rod). Are these the studs you are looking for. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 | They appear to be the ones. Good find. Now I just need the housing possibly. Thanks. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Which/what housing are you looking for? | | | | | Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 | The tierod housing which I may get tomorrow at the salvage yard. The one I had was cut down to accommodate a wheel clearance. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,229 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,229 | So, you have the 3/4 ton, tapered hole, multi-piece tie-rod ends on your truck now, and you bought straight shank, one piece replacement type tie-rods.
Your question is, will the 1/2 ton truck steering arms fit the 3/4 ton truck without effecting the steering geometry? Do you have the 1/2 ton steering arms?
Your options are to replace the ball ends with those listed above in Tim's post and find replacement tie-rod housings, springs, and cups due to yours being cut up and modified. Or, make steel, tapered bushings with straight shank centers to use the parts you bought for the steering arms you have.
Is that about right? | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Not mentioned in the option list is ditch the original type and replace with modern tie rod, draglink and draglink ends. Go to NAPA and see what they offer for your truck.
We're I in your situation, already have steering arms and such with tapered holes, I'd go modern. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 | That is right!!! Thank-you for clarifying for me. I have a 1/2 ton front clip with the arms, but it is two hours away and was hoping to not drive without some certainty of fit. If they would bolt on my 3/4 ton I would have the straight shank hole and the already purchased updated tierods would work. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 | Is the taper a common in other tierod ends. Interested to know if anyone has done this and the part numbers. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 | Thanks for saving me four hours in the car. It is unfortunate that they are not interchangeable.
I appreciate your time on the response. It is a very frustrating issue and I will go NOS. If I can find a casing, I may be able to reuse the innards I have, but need to check closely.
Thanks.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 444 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 444 | Tie Rod Casing GM # 6.233 - GM # 374226 - RIGHTis available GM NOS @ Dan's GM Obsolete Chinook, Montana phone: 406-357-2615 Dan's has ( 1 ) - Right Side Casings - GM # 374226 photo of tie rod casings for 1954 Chev 3600 LEFT = drivers side RIGHT = passenger side http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/...Rod_End_Fittings_GM_NOS__zps7c0a5e32.jpgTie Rod Casing # 6.243 - GM # 374227 - LEFTis available GM NOS @ Colonial Motors North Branch, NJ phone: 908-722-2700 Colonial has ( 2 ) Left Side Casings - GM # 374227 Do your own thing your way....but I advise against using the old innards. The springs have seen better days & I'm sure the ball seats are worn. There's nothing like doing the job right with 100% GM NOS parts. George '54 3600
Last edited by '54 3600; 01/16/2017 9:46 AM. Reason: add
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 367 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 367 | I replaced the tie rod ends on my 59 chevy 36 about a year ago. was fairly simple and cost about $200.00, Found the rod ends at napa and had a new bar built at a speed shop. gained about 1/4 in more clearance between rim (16x6-8 ) and has worked fine since. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,861 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,861 | Forget Midsouth- - - -go right to the source: www.kanolabs.comQuite often Kano has a promotional offer that other retailers can't match. I buy KROIL in gallon cans. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2016 Posts: 21 | So if you read this whole thread you will know that I am trying to fit updated tie rod ends on a 3/4 ton truck. I had wondered if the 1/2 ton steering knuckles arms would fit on the 3/4 ton.
I came across a pair in the salvage yard when retrieving casings to put back the original tie rods. In looking at them and putting them beside the 3/4 ton arms, they looked almost identical except at the ball stud there was a slight size difference on just the end. Anyway, I tried them on and they fit perfectly......and after banging out the ball studs I used the updated tie rods in them since they have the straight (non-tapered) hole. It tracks perfectly down the road after adjusting the tie rod.
This has been a hot topic in many forums and I think this may be a solution to a common problem for 3/4 ton truck owners. | | |
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