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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,077 Posts1,056,034 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 126 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 126 | Hello, I am just starting the process of removing my cab from the chassis and dont know where to begin. I am discovering alot more rust than I had hoped for around the lower area of the front cowl and the panels next to both doors. Body work is not my thing and I am really frustrated at amount of rust on the cab floor areas and front cowl. I cannot find a cab floor panel break down so I dont even know the names of the panels I will need. I am missing the floor board and need to find one. The toe panel ?? is there and in decent shape. The panel that surround the base of the seat frame and extends to the front side of the doors is rusted through where it bolts down near the front cowl...(man, this is not making any scense.). Anyway, I guess I am just at a stand still and a little frustrated right now. I am not sure if there was a question in this mess but I just felt the need to vent a little. Once I get this cab off the frame and all these rusted panels apart and inspected I will probably feel a little better. Like I said I just dont know where to begin. Chris
Chris Simmonds 1942 Chevy 3/4 ton | | | | | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 687 | Chris: Most of us have been there do not look at it as a big picture but many little ones! Something about taking the cab off the frame and starting to work on it scares people. But, you have started the process.
Get the Cab off, ask for help, maybe start on the frame.
popcorn The Truth is Out There (Scary but duable)Ben | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 284 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 284 | I know how you feel.I have a 42 1/2 ton that has more patches than original metal.I just looked at this and divided it into smaller tasks rather than one big job.Besides when you get frustrated you can just walk away and that's the beauty of restoring an old Chevy. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 166 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 166 | Chris, I have a Chevs of the 40s catalog. On page 173, there is an exploded drawing listing the 40-46 cab body parts. This may help. The only cab part they list for sale however is the floorboard that goes from door to door. This is fiberglass, not metal. You can get a catalog at www.chevsofthe40s.com. At least with this, it may give you an idea of some of the parts you may need. I have found some parts in wrecking yards and ebay and other bolters. Barry Weeks has been a great source of parts for me. He is on the Stovebolt Page. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 126 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 126 | Thanks for the encouragment guys. I was just getting frustrated looking at all that work ahead of me. I will take your advise and work on each part one at a time and maybe that will help.
Thanks for the info on the chevs of the 40s charles. I will order one right away. I cannot find that cab parts diagram anywhere.
What is the best way to start cab removal. There are so many rusted bolts and nuts and a million clutch head fasteners that wont budge. What about crawling under the truck with a grinder and just grinding off the cab mount hardware, bolts etc. and lifting it straight off? Is this a good method? All those mounting hardware will have to be replaced anyway.
I have noticed LOTS of patch panels and parts for AD trucks but very little for earlier 40-46 cabs.
Thanks again for all the help. Chris
Chris Simmonds 1942 Chevy 3/4 ton | | | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 | | | | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 | Get everything out you can........seats glass doors soak all the bolts with PB blaster or your choice of lube overnight...Try to save all parts they cost dough or you can use for reference......Take your time....It saves knuckles......I removed all bolts and rolled cab where bed was and put a 8 ft 2x4 thru windows and lifted off with a couple of my kids.......Anything you can save will be useful in rebuilding for reuse or reference. I bought packing list bags and permanent marker contents but sometimes can't read my own writing!!!!
Dan | | | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 | And take plenty pictures
Dan | | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 | I guarantee that we’ve all felt exactly the same way at one time or another with our projects. You get overwhelmed, frustrated, and ready to throw up your hands and quit. The guys have given you some good advice. Break the project into small, manageable projects and whittle away. It will come together.
You should also get your hands on some parts catalogs. They usually have nice drawings that can help you figure out what it is you need. The inner pillars are available for the Advance Design trucks, so you may be able to find a vendor for yours.
Depending what you envision for your project, you may have to look for patch panels to weld in to the floor, or if you are so inclined, you can have a local shop fabricate (cut and bend) new floor pans for you. Since I have no hope of ever turning my truck into a #2 or #1 show truck, having the pans locally is the way I’d go.
My Dad is working through the same issue on a car – the floor is totally trashed, and we’ll be patching in about 70% 'new' floor from a donor car. It can seem hopeless at times, but just tackle it one small piece at a time. Once you have a few small successes, you’ll be ready to take on some of the bigger challenges. It will all work out if you are persistent and patient. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 | Check out my story... I would write it all down again, but it is easier to read about it. My advice....TAKE PICTURES as you go. Many things that appear to be easy to put back together..are..only if you remember. A Pic is worth a thousand words. Just pick a spot and go to town. Be patient remember not to wreck stuff while taking it apart. Just because something is rusty does not mean it is junk. If you wreck it..then it is junk.. Example...the header panel that covers the windshield wiper motors..well, mine was in pretty good shape..I took it off late one night after a long evening of taking off parts. That header panel suffered because my patience was gone. Had I spent a little more time taking it apart, I might not need a new one.. Buy some plastic baggies and a sharpie. Label the bag and then toss in the hardware. You won't remember where all that stuff goes two years from now... Others posted this info too...just letting you know how important it is...or..how easy it will make life in a couple of months or years. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 442 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 442 | Hang in there, there are some times you have to walk away and have a smoke and a Coke, and think about the situation. I just bought a 50 1/2ton project and I may run into the same problems with rust, but have the determination to restore back to original, and as my wife said, I have many years to work on it! think of it as long, long term and it will work. I have finding some floor panel parts on ebay recently, you may want to post a "wanted" ad here for parts, or on ebay, sure that you can find some! Have fun, it's what its all about! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 284 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 284 | One other thing if you use a digital camera don't store the pictures on your computer.If it crashes the photos will be lost.I learned that the hard way. | | |
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