The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Best Type of Sandpaper

Now that I got my truck back and have had a bit of time to try to do some sanding/priming, I've learned a bit.

The only tools that I currently have availble to do any type of sanding/stripping are an electric palm sander, which I use on my construction jobs, and a wire wheel on an ordinary electric drill.

I'm kind of scared of the wire wheel, as I don't know how to tell how much it digs into the metal, and how that will affect the way it appears later.

The small amount of sanding that I did today with the palm sander was done with standard 60 grit sandpaper, which I also use on construction jobs.

I know this isn't what I should be using for metal, for this truck.

I can't afford to buy any more tools at the moment, but can afford to buy more paper.

What's the best type of sandpaper I can use with my palm sander to work on the truck without doing any damage to the metal?

Thanks!

Davey

Depends on how bad the rust and crud on the surface is. I use 100-120 grit a lot when getting down to the metal. I have also used a bit knotted cable wire brush on frame and inner side of fenders.

Damage really depends on where you are sanding and how bad off what your sanding is. I have been using a D/A with 100 grit pads on my 72 which is essentially the same truck as yours.

Are you looking to get down to bare metal?

You can do an awful lot of work with the palm sander. I used 60 grit to strip the heavy rust. Then, I switched to 180 grit to take it to bare metal.

The metal wheel CAN do a lot of damage to the surface of the metal (I learned this the hard way). I really like the Scotch-Brite wheels that you can attach to a standard 3/8" drill to strip metal. If you have an electric drill, I'd recommend you try one out. The pads are only about $5 and they are much, much faster than the palm sander.

Since I don't really know anything about preparing metal surfaces for at least a primer coat, I figured my best bed is to start inside the bed box.

I figure if I do any kind of damage in there it's not that of a deal.

I tried a palm sander with standard 60 grit paper, the kind I use to sand wood. But it was taking forever so I gave up.

I bought a circular wire wheel for the electric drill and tried that. It didn't work any better, so I quit that as well.

I'll try a knotted cable wire brush to see what that does in the box arnswine, and also try out the Scotch-Brites as well Kim.

I might switch to a more suitable type of sand paper for this type of job for the palm sander and see if that helps any.

I'm a little leery about using solvents, but who knows?

I'll get it done. I just need to learn, and I don't really have a whole lot of time available right now for the project. Maybe I'll find some time this weekend.

Thanks again!

Davey

Hi 120 grit wet or dry paper works well to start with. After you get some primer on 400 - 600 grit wet or dry works best. Harbor Freight sells a 4 1/2" right angle grinder ( sometimes for under $20) that you can use a knotted wire brush with.
Good Luck
Steve

Thanks hourhand.

A grinder for about $20???

I'll hafta look into that.

Right now I'm just trying to use my carpentry tools to do what little I have time for.

I just spent about $2500!!! in the last 6 weeks replacing & buying new tools for my "day job", not to mention the money I've spent on Venus. So, my budget's getting a bit tight.

I'll certainly take a look at the grinder at Harbor Freight though.

Ya can't work without tools.

Davey

RUH ROH..........

hourhand I think you just messed me up.

Harbor Freight ha "a buncha tools".

One 4 1/2" grinder is only about $10.

I wouldn't trust that very far.

I do see a lot of pneumatic tools. I have an air compressor. Might go that route.

I can see by looking that a grinder would be easier on the hands and wrists than a regular electric drill, at least in some cases.

Thanks!

Davey

That's my absolute preferred method - the angle grinder. If you get one, use the Scotch-Brite stripper wheel - I don't recommend anything else with an angle grinder. That is the fastest way to strip paint that we've found when you're limited to hand tools (air or electric). The higher rpms the grinder can achieve really make quick work of stripping paint.

There was also a great product out called the 'sand blaster' which was backing pads for your grinder and various heavy duty scotch brite wheels. They worked GREAT on my jeep. The only bad news is that the durn pad is stuck on my grinder and I can't get it off. Its really stuck on good. I bought a bunch of the stuff when they started dissappearing at lowes. Not only did they pull off the rust, but they smoothed out ugly welds too. Of course anything that good had to go over the side.

Here's a listing for them:

http://doityourself.com/store/4060810.htm#

but that is a bit pricey for one for as long as it lasts. They can grind up quickly though, but they do a lot of work. And you can use them on stuff you'll want to look at too.

I was reluctant to mention it but decided to see if I could find them anywhere first because I haven't seen them in a few months.

your sander and paper will work fine,,so if the moneys short go with what you have...you will have to resand with finer to remove sand marks...

Agree with Doc41: Just finished doing my doors used my Mil. palm sander w/ 40 & 60 grit paper. Then after getting 75% primer and old paint removed went to 100 grit.

Will finish with 200 or so to get any sand marks out.

The biggest problem is we all want to get into a hurry. That paint is how many years old it doesn't want to give up to easy.

popcorn The Truth is Out There (Takes time nothing good comes from getting in a rush) If we could afford it we would all pay to get it dipped. Ben

Just so you'll know, here's what I noticed in the few shorts hours I got to "play" with Venus the other day on the paint stripping and sanding issues the other day.

Using the palm sander with plain 60 grit paper, or the wire wheel on the basic 3/8" electric drill, they both worked just fine on the body.

But neither were making any kind of progress whatsoever inside the bed box.

I mean s - l - o - w to non-existant.

For now, being a total dufus about what I am doing, I intend to work inside the bedbox, until I get better accustomed to sanding etc.

I'm gonna follow arswine & Kimberley's advice on this part of the truck and see what happens.

Thanks for all opinions.

I hope to get to do some work on Venus this weekend.

If I do get to, and make any substantial progress, I'll add before and after pics at my site, and let you guys know.

Once again, Thanks a "1/2 ton"!

Davey

Go to Harbor Freight and buy one of there $10 grinders and a couple of their cup grinders they have a brass look to them for $5 each and get inside your bed. Take it to bare metal then prime. Dry or wet sand reprime and paint. I'm a carpenter by trade and agree you get what you pay for. Harbor Freight is OK as a limited use tool. Beat the hell out of it when it dies you lost $20. I have 3 of their 4 inch grinder each with a different wheel and I beat the crap out of them. Cheaper than one Dewalt ,Mikita or Porter Cable. Agree if I used daily I would buy a better brand but only had a problem with a battery charger which they exchanged with no problem

Dan

Thanks Dan. I think I'll have a bit of extra cash this weekend to at least buy the temp gauge, my main concern, and maybe a grinder with a wheel or two.

There's a Lowe's store a couple of miles from me. Just looked at their website, and they have grinders from cheap to expensive.

I'll go up there and look, "if I'm not working", and see what they have.

I'm listening to what everybody is telling me in here. I am gonna get a grinder. Just don't know which yet. I'll know that when I touch it.

I once used a $15 B&D router on my construction jobs for close to 10 years before I had to discard it. And, I mean I used it! So I know what you are talking about.

Thanks for the info!

davey