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#119367 02/01/2006 4:38 AM
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'Bolter
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Anyone have a good way to remove rust and paint from my rear window rubber seal?? The seal rubber seems to be in fairly good shape except for the body rust that has embedded itself into parts of the rubber. There are also remnants of several layers of paint that I would like to remove. I have tried a little wire brushing and some scraping, but wonder if there is an easer (lazy) way??


1941 Chevy Master 3/4-Ton
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Born to fish, the truck is only a hobby.
#119368 02/01/2006 2:41 PM
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Might try a little WD-40 and let it set for awhile.


Bruce
Old Toy: Ol' Betsy stock 59 Apache SB Stepside (Gone but not Forgotten)
New Toy: 1962 Impala SS Coupe
The Driver: 1990 Toyota truck
#119369 02/01/2006 4:47 PM
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eek Rusty Rubber eek


Whats up, Doc?
#119370 02/01/2006 5:19 PM
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Just buy a new one ,any glass shop should have that stuff in a roll.Take your old one in and they can match it up !


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#119371 02/01/2006 8:19 PM
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Quote
Originally posted by Elmer PHD:
eek Rusty Rubber eek
Maybe a typo and the C is missing. eek


Bruce
Old Toy: Ol' Betsy stock 59 Apache SB Stepside (Gone but not Forgotten)
New Toy: 1962 Impala SS Coupe
The Driver: 1990 Toyota truck
#119372 02/02/2006 12:24 AM
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I’ve tried some of the local shops and but none match the one that came off of the truck. I think it must be original as under the several layers of paint it has a little of the original blue. The rubber is nicely drilled for the window frame bolts and even counter-bored for the bolt bosses on the diecast frame. I ordered one from a mail order place but it did not match either.

Looks like I’ll try the WD40


1941 Chevy Master 3/4-Ton
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Born to fish, the truck is only a hobby.
#119373 02/02/2006 1:40 AM
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i dont know what truck you have, but I think i only paid $14 dollars for my rear rubber from Carters. Considering that an old one gets hard with age and yours is already rusty and dirty, I wouldn't even think twice about buying a new flexable one.


Jeff
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#119374 02/02/2006 4:27 AM
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Kip41, I bought a new rubber gasket from Chev's of the 40's and had to drill new holes. What a B**** to change. Good Luck lol

#119375 02/02/2006 6:06 PM
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Finally ......Someone who understands me (guess I shoulda specified its a '41) . I have the same gasket and it is going back! The WD-40 seems to be loosening the deeper rust and some of the layers of paint. With any luck a couple more days under the oil, then a light wire brush and a little ArmorAll will make it "like new"


1941 Chevy Master 3/4-Ton
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Born to fish, the truck is only a hobby.
#119376 02/03/2006 2:21 AM
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I had to reuse the rear gasket in the restoration of my 64 Valiant. I had to soak it in mineral spirits. It makes a mess with all the black coming off of it but it makes it plyable and cleans it very well. Make shure you wear rubber gloves and rinse it off realy good to get the excess off.


1966 C10 250/3 Stepside
1966 C10 327/3 Fleetside
1972 Buick Centurion 455/TH400
1964 Plymouth Valiant 360/A833 4spd
1964 Plymouth Sport Fury 440/727
I've got a new car....It was made in '72
#119377 02/03/2006 5:17 PM
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For any of your rubber replacement parts I would recommend going directly to Steel Rubber. Their products cost more but the Quality is 10 times better than anyone else.

This is important where windows are concerned, you don't want to be replacing the rubber again in 2 or 3 years.

If you can salvage the original, go for it, otherwise contact Steel Rubber.

George

#119378 02/03/2006 6:33 PM
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46: How was their service did you call and talk directly on a phone or just order on line. Ben

popcorn The Truth is Out There (Very close to get ready to order for doors and all windows)

#119379 02/03/2006 6:46 PM
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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pop - the service from Steele is excellent, and they'll admit and fix any mistakes they make - and considering they are THE repro rubber maker, well worth dealing with - they only make parts they know are 100% correct and they use they highest quality material formulations

I sent them some good condition original panel barn door seals to reproduce and they handled the whole thing well and reproduced the seals perfectly - talked to them on the phone twice, but either online or toll free ordering will be fine I'm sure, and their service reps DO know the products

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
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#119380 02/03/2006 7:45 PM
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Thanks Bill! Saved ol Dads butt again. Problay just make a call I really like talking to a "live person" learn more.

popcorn The Truth is Out There (One more door to tear apart then sending stuff to Indy to chrome also)Ben

#119381 02/03/2006 9:58 PM
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I just talked to Steel Rubber on the tel. talked to a lady named Karen. I think I am in love (southern drawl) very, very, friendly people. Thanks for the head up! Ben

popcorn The Truth is Out There (I love this sight)

popcorn3023 #516741 03/13/2009 7:59 PM
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Bolter
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did you get it delivered on time


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joker #516836 03/14/2009 12:55 AM
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The bad thing about removing a rubber window seal is that the rubber, originally installed tightly around the window, has shrunk and has held it's position only because a glass was in it.

More often than not, simply removing the glass allows the rubber to contract enough to prevent reinstalling. Add to that the loss of pliability, you can break a glass.

I installed glass for 15 years, been there, done that!

Kip's41 #516998 03/14/2009 1:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Kip's41
I have the same gasket and it is going back!
I had issues with the rubber I got from Chevs as well. The back glass rubber was destroyed trying to make it fit & the vent window seals were a joke. They were an inch too short. Try driving with a half inch gap at the top & bottom of the vent window in the rain while listening to the whistle. I don't know who made the back glass rubber but Metro Molding made the vent window seals. I bought replacements for both from Steele & they fit like a glove.


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