The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Surface Rust

Its the middle of winter here in Michigan and cold in my garage. I would really like to get a jump on some paint and rust removal especially around areas like the windshield, back window and cowl vent that I'm rebuilding. It is a little too cold to apply primmer and I'm wondering if there is a coating that can be applied to prevent surface rust until it warms up a little (July). Has anyone tried a thin coat of WD40? It should be easily removable with a degreaser or metal prep.

I have used a thin coating of 3-in-1 oil on bare metal parts that I am not ready to prime. Seems to work well in the Houston area. Just have to be sure to get it all off before spraying.
I also used some rust disolver from Home Depot on my hood. The results are very good although it took several applications. The metal has not re-rusted as yet as it seems to have left a film on the metal. To remove it will take a DA sander or a wire wheel.

kip's41,

Would it possible to do the body work, heat the bare area with heat lamps for awhile, then spray it with a aerosol can of etch primer.

My auto paint store has etch primer in aerosol cans and it comes in great for little jobs. It keeps the rust away until a permanent paint or primer is applied.

The array of heat lamps is something you see in many body shops.


Stuart

Sorry to hijack the thread, but what was the name of the stuff you got from Home Depot Houston54, and where was it located in the store? I looked there before but didn't turn anything up and the employee I talked to had no clue.

Kip, I'm in the same boat as you-Ohio weather hasn't been too bad lately, but it is still cold. I have been turning on the heat in the garage when I get home from work and by the time I actually get out there at 9:00 or so, it's comfortable. I've been using spray cans as suggested above and so far it is working. The directions say to paint in ~72*, but I've had no problems with 50-55* so far...

WD40 is a painters nightmare,that stuff will get into cracks and seams,sit there,then show it's fish eye face when whoever gets to paint it.my opinion (wet primer is better than oil).

I cannot recall the exact name but I found it in one of the paint aisles. It is a rust disolver. Worked good for me and I had heavy surface rust and pitting. The container is still at home if you cannot locate it.

Thanks all !! Looks like the WD 40 idea is a no go. I'll try for heat lamps, a little local heat and wait till the primer drys. The old truck ain't going anywhere for a while anyway.

I'll also keep a watch here to see if anything turns up at Home Depot

The product name is Phosphoric Plus by Kleen Strip.

i just use cheap primer,red oxide. i primered fenders that were sandblasted and they sat 5months in a damp garage and they look great.
for a story on contents of soda, when i hauled over the road i used to haul chemicals to make coke,some nasty stuff, had a 53' trailer all i can carry is 2 fifty five gallon drums in very front,secured well.1 20 gallon drum in the middle,secured well, and 2 1'x1' square boxes at the back doors. from new york to california hazardous placards on trailer,while getting loaded you sat in truck with 2 armed guards watching you.

go to any parts store that mixes paint and ask I have something that is from dupont that is a wipe on...

I used a product bought at FLAPS called Right Stuff. One quart about 5 bucks. Has phosphoric acid. I put in a spray bottle and pumped into frame nooks and crannies. Smells a little nasty and turns black when dry. Seems to work OK. I them cover with a primer. Directions say to use above 38 degrees but I've used at lower temps just took longer to dry.

Dan