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#119174 01/18/2006 6:12 PM
Joined: Oct 2005
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After tripping paint,is there a product besides primer, that is applied to body metal that prevents rusting while you do body work?
Chris


Chris
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vasoline.

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The reason I asked this was I saw a car that was being worked on that had a coating looked like grey color , but the guy I talked to( not owner) thought it was a spray on that was there for over a year and no surface rust.Maybe just a sealer?
By the way I meant STRIPPING paint.Sorry can't type very well.
Chris


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I went to the local autobody supplier a couple months ago now (oh how time flies), and bought a metal prep. A one litre bottle for about 20 dollars. The supplier said that when you have bare metal you can rub this stuff on, and keep it in bare metal for ten years and it won't rust. -shurg-. Might be worth a try to go to a supplier and see what they got. Good Luck.
Colin

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K
'Bolter
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Go to the "Tech Tips" tab and scroll down to Product Reviews. You will find an article on rust removal & prevention, It will lead you to lots of places


1941 Chevy Master 3/4-Ton
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need to be careful with metal prep, had my cab sandblasted and listened to someone who i thought knew what they were talking about . told me i had to metal prep it before i could prime it WRONG.......... watched it rust before my eyes. man was i [censored].... dave


1949 Chevrolet 3100

"When this thing hits 88 miles an hour, you're going to see some serious sh%t." -Doc Brown
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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You can apply a rust remover liquid. It usually is a thick liquid with the main ingredient I believe to be phosphoric acid. If you apply it and leave it on to dry. it will not rust at all. My bottle says this in the instructions. Also, the minute you remove it with water, the rust will start.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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37lookin,

I'm not sure if this is what you had in mind, but this would be my recipe..strip, grind, or sandblast the item (dented) to a clean bright finish. Apply two part etch primer followed by 2 part epoxy primer. Now you have the ability to work on the dents and bangs at your leisure OVER the 2k primer.

I don't think you need to do anymore surface prep before body filler other than a little roughing of the surface.

This method might sound funky, but I think it is SOP these days in body shops. Ideally, the primer substrate is bonded with the sheet metal, and anything applied to it is for keeps!

The paint you saw on the rig in the body shop was probably 2k primer. There has been tons of banter in this forum on this subject. I hope this unprofessional information helps answer your question.

Stuart

Joined: May 2004
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If you don't want to go to primer right away while you do body work, one option I like is to coat the bare metal with Picklex 20. It is a metal prep solution that leaves a temporary protective coating against flash rust as long as it is kept dry. You don't need to neutralize it or rinse it with water like some metal prep formulations. When ready to paint, I just scuff it and spray epoxy primer right over the Piclex as it acts as an adhesion promoter for the primer. You can buy it direct from the manufacturer (do a google search) or I think autobodystore.com sells it too. It's a bit expensive but goes a long ways from my experience.

-Ed


Ed Fallon
In seemlingily endless process of restoring a stock 1953 chev 3100 pickup.

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