The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors VIN ID TAG

Does someone have the location and orientation of the VIN number plate for a 49' 3100. (filled rivet holes, don't remember)

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsmA2.htm

I think that hex-sized clutch-head attachment screws were still used in 1949 (up through 1950)?

http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/blog/index.php/tag/id-plates/

These "rivets" were used after 1950 but you could use them on yours.

1949 reproduction ID plate

Tim,
Thanks, I have the new plate and rivets
Still need to stamp numbers.

none of the links show a dimensional location from top or bottom hinge or orientation (facing in or out)

Need to mount for inspection,if I ever get that far.....

orientation is shown in my first link (between hinges)

someone else will have to measure exact location

your first post did not request code: codes are here

what size/model truck?

Tim,
I have original tag, so I will copy numbers (NY plant ,July 49)

The pic looks like it is facing out towards open door

Here is a factory picture from 1948, most trucks have the same holes on the passenger side for export trucks, are they filled as well?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/17057160050/in/album-72157651722976780/

yes , all holes filled
if I could get a measurement from floor from someone with a '49 3100

Brad's picture gives you a great reference for where to put that plate. Just use the rib in the metal on the door to line up the bottom of the plate, then use your plate as a template to mark your 2 holes.
Carl

Filled them with what? Weld or bondo?

oh, should have noticed that,sorry

Not sure how to use these rivets without pins,never saw those before
Maybe will just use regular rivets

It looks like those those rivets were used from 1951 to 1972.

You punch the center of each rivet and that locks/secures the rivet/plate in place.

OK, so a pin punch should do it
now to stamp this plate consistently

There is no uniform pattern for the plates. I have seen plates punched with all 1/4" letters and numbers (like the '48 plate) shown below.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8130544334/in/album-72157631870734114/
I have also seen them punched with 3/16" numbers and 1/4" letters (like my own '50).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129122101/stats/
Here is another from a truck I parted.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8130515931/stats/
I believe the plates were punched prior to assembly with general year/model schemes and then the final plant production number that day as produced. There is wide variation in the spacing, and location on the plate of the various schemes. One final caution the stamps do not require a hard hit, it takes practice to not cut the plate with fresh stamps. I perfected my technique on a piece of sheet metal I had in the shop (stamp it on a block of wood, not metal), I would suggest practice before damaging a $20 plate.
If you look through my Parts and more parts album and my Parts Trucks album, I have many examples of plates off my parts trucks.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/albums/72157631868452754
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/albums/72157631870734114

Not using original tag, if you have it, is fishy. It is illegal for you to stamp your own tag. If a savvy DMV guy sees a new tag, he should question the whole deal.

I use the techniques above for Coke machines and gas pump restorations, not trucks.

I know hacker is not trying to do anything wrong BUT: If you are legit, have the actual Title that matches an actual VIN plate for the actual truck, you are in like Flynn. There are rules in every state as to how to reattach the plate, get a duplicate or a new plate. Usually done by the DMV and/or State police. Just do that. Otherwise Bad things can happen. Then you have to prove what you did was "innocent" and pay a fine, a lawyer, impound fees, mend your handcuff sores and get an annulment of your marriage to Bubba. As you can obviously see, if what you are doing was allowed, any crook could buy a truck that was stolen, abandon, etc. and then buy a title that matches the year and make, then copy the VIN onto a plate and rivet it on. It's called Grand Theft Auto.

Thanks for the pictures. I'm surprised at how amateurish the original plates look. I was thinking that it would be a good idea to get a trophy shop to engrave the plate but I think the final product would look too good!

bartamos,
I will check with Registry,this has been done before

You might want to keep your original ID plate in the truck, with the registration/inspection certificates (in the glove box, if you have one).

I wonder how many Stovebolters have had their original or stamped reproduction ID tag/plate (Vehicle Serial Number plate) inspected and/or challenged?

That was my intention to keep original in glove box, we will see what registry says

Good deal. Glad you are checking. No offense to Government workers, but you can't trust the DMV, no way, no how. We, as the public, are so screwed up sometimes that we have made them squirrely and cautious. Not to mention they have rules to follow and there are no exceptions for nice people.
Whomever has stamped their own plate is, so far, just plain lucky and/or lives in a state that is still civilized. There are guys at DMV who know what rivet is original or not.
In AZ they don't see the truck, just the title. No emission inspection on older vehicles. We don't have safety inspections except OTR haulers and "special" vehicles.

I'll keep you posted as to their response.

Hopefully they say to set up an appointment with State police to witness you attaching old plate. The old plate is way more cool to have on there. Try hard to find some correct old clutch head screws or get them from some other place on your truck.

Post a parts-wanted ad for the clutch head screws.

I think you will find that style/size screw was not used elsewhere on the truck.

Heads too big? Wrong head config?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1939-1940-1...h-Head-Screws-Used-QTY-96-/351877111310?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-1...-1947-1948-1960-1951-1962-/122147500750?

wrong
wrong

Almost as scarce as hen's teeth.

Those screws have a hex head as found/used on early clutch head screws.

Just stand back and give me a few minutes with my bench grinder and they will be hex head. (A file or a sander will work also)

That'll do it - flat top and hex head.

Are they for-sale, Brad?

Brad is THE man!

I'm pretty sure I have the screws,sounds like it will be easier to put original plate back on .

I think the original plate is the right legal choice and they are cool. They can however be pretty rough and cleaning them usually does more harm than good. What we need is someone to develop an appliqué to recreate the original look on the original plate, hmmmmm.

This ended up a long thread for a short question.

I really like the reproduction plate,nice and clean.

oh, well.....

Remember at the end of the day it is your truck, it should really please you, not us. Plates and titles topics always drive that response, lots of opinions, horror stories and multiple states/countries of differing details.

Agree.

I will say that whatever "patina" the plate has, against a newly painted jamb, is what makes it cool. Wash it, dab it with xxx and see what it wants to be cleaned with, depending what is wrong with it. Whatever it looks like, it's gold!

Hacker: lots of great advice here, I've been following this post and thought I'd weigh in. Just like you, Hacker, I had the original tag, but someone had previously removed it for cleaning and scratched it all up and it looked awful! I bought a new repop tag from one of the vendors: really nice! And so I went to a local engraver and impressed on him that I wanted the size and font of the engraving on the reproduction tag to match my original exactly. He starts talking about programming his engraving machine and how long it would take and $$$ and blah blah blah....and he could do it but it would cost like $160. Wut da h?! So after some serious consideration, my answer was to cut the corner out of my new tag and peel and stick it on top of my old one. My old tag is still on the truck then, right, but with a face lift. And sorry guys, I didn't use original type rivets or clutch heads....I did it my way, right? VIN TAG
Good luck Hacker.....regards, Dave

All that proves is that you can do whatever you want until you try to sell it, register it, get new license plates and truck gets presented to DMV. What if you get in a fender bender and the police get involved? Try telling them you did it your way.
Obviously I "don't care" but one can't escape that all this messing with VIN is Illegal. Whether you ever get "caught" or not. It's not debatable. All the ideas and aftermarket fabulous plates are all illegal. Some guy makes you prove it's your truck before he makes a plate, salesmanship hog wash and that will never save him if the Gov't/Postal Service comes after him. He ain't the DMV and none of us is either. I won't comment further. I respect that no one is trying to be illegal, just lazy or cheap. I can not believe you guys have the actual plate and are screwing around. Unbelievable. "Gosh all Friday" as my mother-in-law used to say.

My 1953 had orig tag, but it was detached. Called for vin inspection, they ran engine #'s, and vin on title, they also ran previous title that was in So. Dak. When it did not show any irregularities the truck was signed off. I got aftermarket tag stamped my own numbers with Harbor frt. stamp kit. I am going to use orig. type rivits, ask the inspector about new plate install, was told it was OK to replace tag.

Brad,
thanks