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#1183357 09/20/2016 3:17 AM
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My mechanic looked over my truck (a while back for those keeping up, '53 GMC 3100) and recommended new kingpins. I finally got around to TRYING to take them off but the one I got to (left/driver's side) WILL NOT BUDGE.
Yes, I took the retaining pin out. I tried some heat with what I have (propane torch) and busted out the BFH and a brass punch. Went at it about 2 hours and nothing. Tried hammering upwards and downwards to no avail. Any tips??

gusco #1183366 09/20/2016 4:09 AM
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How bad was the right side? I have heard of some guys having to take the axle out and have them pressed. I'll bet some savy bolter will come along with a better idea. Hang tight and keep them soaking in penetrant.


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gusco #1183371 09/20/2016 5:23 AM
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Its easier to remove the axle and have the pins done at a machine shop if you don't own a portable king pin press


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thoroco #1183381 09/20/2016 7:12 AM
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Is the axle hanging in space or on the springs? You should solidly support it as close as possible to the kingpin. How big is your BFH? The bigger the better when it comes to driving pins out.
There are rust molecules in there holding hands, and the idea is to make enough noise that they let go and cover their ears. grin

Last edited by klhansen; 09/20/2016 7:14 AM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
gusco #1183383 09/20/2016 9:26 AM
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The BFH on kingpins can actually result in a bent axle. Support it solidly as close to the king pin as possible and give it a whack or three. If no movement you'll be better off pressings them out either in place if you can or remove the axle and take it to the press.

Whaling away with the big hammer for some time is not a good idea.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
gusco #1183409 09/20/2016 2:23 PM
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'Bolter
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I pounded mine out with a sledge hammer, years ago. What I discovered later was that the kingpins bulged a tiny bit on the top and damaged the holes in the axle. I eventually had to have hardened bushing installed in the axle to bring them back to standard. I would remove the axle and press them out.

Last edited by truckernix; 09/20/2016 2:23 PM.

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gusco #1183426 09/20/2016 4:12 PM
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Support the axle with heavy wood blocks, and give a couple really good whacks with the biggest hammer you have. If it starts moving, keep at it till you get close to the end. Keep measuring the pin before driving it out so you don't force the swelled out parts through the hole. You may have to grind down the pin or cut it off before continuing. Spray lube is you friend here along with heat. Switch your propane bottle to a bottle of MAP gas, it will get much hotter. The axle should almost be cherry red.
I have had to drive pins out of school bus axle with sledge hammers taking full overhead swings, it's not a fun job!

Joe

Grigg #1183437 09/20/2016 5:48 PM
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Originally Posted by Grigg
The BFH on kingpins can actually result in a bent axle. Support it solidly as close to the king pin as possible and give it a whack or three. If no movement you'll be better off pressings them out either in place if you can or remove the axle and take it to the press.

Whaling away with the big hammer for some time is not a good idea.
Agree 100%.
Also whaling away with a not big enough hammer is even worse. All that does is mushroom the pin.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
gusco #1183443 09/20/2016 6:03 PM
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1951 3100

I was waiting on the 'Heat' recommendation. Some will agree and some will not agree with heat. I personally had the spindles off my axle, put them in my press, and heated them, and heated them, sprayed some penetrant, and heated them some more. Used a rosebud, and was not shy using it. And after a while, it will start to release. You can hear the press starting to relax. Once it does, it's on then. They will come right out. The key, which more than one person told me, it to let the spindle cool on it's own.

I tried spraying them, letting them sit, and then BFHing them, but I'm not a big fan of that much banging. Something else may give, and not what you want. Bores cleaned up very nice, measured out correct, new bushings went in snug, king pins went in snug, and so far, everything is straight and true.
Whole front end may collapse, but I don't think it will.

A press is the way to go.
Just my 2 cents worth.

Mike


Mike

1951 3100 5 window
gusco #1183444 09/20/2016 6:08 PM
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I've had them tap out as pretty as you please (not worn either) and I've had to use the press on others. Heat assist being last resort, some shop manuals warn against it.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
gusco #1183496 09/21/2016 3:35 AM
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I suppose I'll try to see if some c-clamp type press from the FLAPS will fit and do the job. Otherwise I'll pop off the axle and take it over to my mechanic to have them pressed out. Thanks for the help, fellas!

gusco #1184088 09/25/2016 12:05 AM
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Ball joint press did the job! Thanks for the tips everyone!
Now for the bushings in the spindle... How do I get them out??

gusco #1184120 09/25/2016 2:40 AM
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They are a slip fit design, both on the king pin and the bore of the spindles. You should be able to easily tap them out, unless someone Loctited them to the spindle bores. In that case, some heat from a propane torch should make the Loctite let go.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
gusco #1184262 09/26/2016 3:05 AM
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Sounds straight forward enough. Does it matter which direction they go out? Also, I'm measuring because I don't know if oversize pins have been installed. Is the advertised measurement the measurement of the pin itself or the bore in the axle with/without the bushings??
Thanks for all the help!

gusco #1184266 09/26/2016 3:46 AM
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Pin diameter, which is bore in axle, and bushing diameter in spindle after reaming, all the same within 0.001" or less.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
gusco #1184562 09/28/2016 3:31 AM
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Everything measured up to standard size (.866). New kingpin set has been ordered. Thanks for the help!


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