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#1183215 09/19/2016 6:28 AM
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 261
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 261
Hi All,

I am about to tackle the rear and quarter window install on my 1950 1/2 ton. Should the rubber end seam meet at the bottom of the window or on the side?
I have seen vendor sale a window/rubber lubricant and a body/rubber lubricant, do most people use these? Any good videos of how to do this? See some for the back and front but not quarter windows.
thanks,
skipper

rc356s #1183221 09/19/2016 8:11 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
The technique is exactly the same for all the back windows using the Claytonrite style rubber,I normally put the join at the top but side is OK too.
I prefer to do this as at the bottom causes a potential leak point. imo.
IF you cut the rubber perfectly square at each end and oversize the rubber length slightly, the join should all but disappear and oversizing also allows for some shrinkage.
Make your join in the filler/lock strip opposite the main rubber join too..

As far as lubricant is concerned I use simple alcohol based glass cleaner.
If you do resort to using anything else just try and avoid silicon based products.
I've even heard of folks using 'personal' lubricant....whatever works! grin

You may already have seen this but just in case you haven't it might help.

Rear glass install on AD truck.

Good luck.


Last edited by jockbolter50; 09/19/2016 8:17 AM.

1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
rc356s #1183251 09/19/2016 3:25 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
We use the original formula GoJo. Slippery as snot and washes completely off with plain water. Cleans your hands at the same time.


Evan
rc356s #1183270 09/19/2016 6:39 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Non-scented, non-silicone, water-soluble personal lubricant. It will not affect the seal and it will easily wipe off and evaporate.

rc356s #1183344 09/20/2016 2:33 AM
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 261
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 261
thanks for the suggestions. I looked at the link and it shows to install the seal first onto the body and then to add the window. Shouldn't the window be added to the glass and then both put on the body? By the way, my rear windows do not have the SS trim. Only my front window has the trim.

rc356s #1183432 09/20/2016 5:10 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
Originally Posted by rc356s
thanks for the suggestions. I looked at the link and it shows to install the seal first onto the body and then to add the window. Shouldn't the window be added to the glass and then both put on the body? By the way, my rear windows do not have the SS trim. Only my front window has the trim.

The link I provided is the correct way to install the rear glass,some can and do string them in but risk tearing the rubber or worse still cracking the glass.
As you noticed the lock strip used in the link is just a plastic 'chrome' insert rather than the black rubber insert but the technique however is exactly the same,I mentioned this in the descriptions to each picture.
The fronts as you know use an actual Stainless steel rigid trim,an entirely different animal and installation technique all together.

Last edited by jockbolter50; 09/21/2016 2:03 PM.

1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.

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