The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 53 3100 hate the live juice to ammeter

So can I put a fuse between the wire that goes from starter to ammeter gauge?

I hate it that the two inch post always has live current.

I always pull back the floor mat, pull the battery panel and disconnect the battery before working, but last night the cable snuck back and made contact with the terminal...scared the bejesus out of me.

Use a fusible link where the ammeter wire connects to the starter cable. It will handle current surges better than a fuse. I'd choose a piece of fuse link of about 12 gauge- - - -which should have a burn-out point of around 60 amps or so. Be VERY sure you get a good electrical connection. I use a Western Union splice for fuse links.
Jerry

Also how nervous should I be about the posts for ammeter and gas gauges touching the edges of the case?

We insulate the front and back but not the posts as they go through.

Thinking of putting a small rubber piece to protect the post?

Am I crazy?

I'll go ahead and answer everyone's question but mainly my own!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice

Thanks Alvin, but I refreshed my diminishing memory by using the "Search" (above) in the menu above: Keyword Search Terms : +Western +Union +Splice".

First reference here in 2006.

To expand on Hotrod's comment. The rule of thumb for fusible links is 4 wire sizes smaller for the link vs the size of wire you are protecting. So, if you are using an #8AWG wire to your amp meter then one would use a #12AWG link. The odd numbers like 11, 13, 15 count.

Don't the insulators in all ammeters have bushings where the conductors go through the metal mounting plate? Every one I've ever worked on does. Some folks lie awake at night wondering why the faucet isn't dripping!
Jerry

Thanks HRL , Jerry you put a big smile on my face with the mention of a western union splice. It brought back memories of proper methodology. I am also a HAM and make connections quite often.
Alvin and others can look it up to refresh how to do it correct.

The current to the back of a ammeter can get out of control with old frayed wiring and the use of higher amperage alternators used as a upgrade without a shunt also being used.
New stuff uses a volt meter.

LOL! You're new enough on the forum that I'm sure you weren't around for the flame war over the proper way to shunt a stovebolt ammeter. I use a piece of stainless steel hose clamp shaped into an approximation of the "Ohms" symbol, bolted across the terminals of the ammeter. Since that meter was always about as accurate as a 9-lb. sledgehammer used for driving carpet tacks, the shunt turns it into a charge/discharge indicator, which is all it was to begin with. The screams of protest over that common-sense solution were epic!
Jerry

BTW, I ride an 82 GL1100! I crashed an 86 GL1200 two years ago, and almost lost my left foot! Bikes are much more fun on top, not so much under one!
Jerry

Jerry;

Did you wrap the shunt in heat shrink to eliminate any possible shorting. I remember the knock down drag out about shunts and I think I'm still in your camp on the issue. I would think it would be prudent to insulate the shunt.

That would be a good idea- - - -just use a fairly large piece of heat shrink tubing over the loop section of the shunt. The voltage drop across it shouldn't be sufficient to overheat the insulation even in high current flow situations.
Jerry

The shunt across the Ammeter is just a parallel circuit. Big current in the shunt, and small across the meter. Works like a champ. I never thought you could "read" the current on the meter, just "charge"(good) and "discharge"(bad). If you wanted a good read(in Amps) you used a big lead tester. 35 Amps will heat up 12 gauge wire, and 100 Amps runs my home. Stainless hose clamp..won't rust(and become a Resistor). Heat shrink will keep most stuff from shorting so that is good. Not a bad way to go if you must use a big current system. Use a Volt meter to keep track of the system overall.