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#1174355 07/17/2016 9:38 PM
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 15
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New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 15
I have a 52 PU with corner windows. I am replacing the seals around the windows and struggling with inserting the chrome bead. I put the seal in then put the glass in the seal and can't for anything get the bead into the tiny space allotted for the bead. What am I doing wrong:(

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Takes a special tool. I'm sure someone who knows the name will chime in. After fighting it for awhile my son paid a professional to do it for him.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
rear lock bead installation tool ( shown in figure 9 )

"Instructions for Use:
The lock bead is placed in the tool opening. Using the handle of the tool, work the lock bead into the gasket groove by applying downward pressure as you slide the bead along the groove opening. The point of the tool helps to open the groove while you rock the tool back and forth, forcing the bead into the lock positon within the groove opening. Can also be used to reverse the process for removing the bead when uninstalling the glass."

It works - it is needed.

Use a lot of non-silicone non-scented personal lubricant gel, like astraglide.

Joined: Oct 2011
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G
New Guy
New Guy
G Offline
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 15
Thanks for the replies. I have the install tool that came with the seals. I will try the lube but it seems like it will still be impossible.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
What does your install tool look like?
Who did you buy seals from?

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
Originally Posted by Green52
Thanks for the replies. I have the install tool that came with the seals. I will try the lube but it seems like it will still be impossible.
I'll let you know how it turns out.

I'd imagine the tool they supply is not of the best quality,the ones I use daily the loop section the strip passes through is made of spring steel.

This is similar to what I use except I have individual fixed ones for different size lock strips.

Here's a link to a little 'how to' I did a while back,just in case you're overlooking something,the technique is the same with corner glass.
I hope it helps.

Don't use too much 'lube' as it'll get too slick and fight you all the way.

I just use plain old spray glass cleaner,or a spray bottle with water and mild dish soap solution.
NO silicon!

Good luck.


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Oct 2011
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G
New Guy
New Guy
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Posts: 15
seals came front Brothers as well as the tool which looks like a narrow putty knife with a 1/4" finger sticking down, I imagine to open the slot for the chrome strip.

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
If you have the window in, carefully take the truck to your local auto glass installer and fork over a few bucks for them to put the chrome lock strip in. It will save wear and tear on your hair.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
I'm with Martin on this one. I will try to fix anything on these trucks except final paint, and windshield and rear glass. The pros just make it look so easy.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 186
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 186
I must be crazy but I attempted all those things.

Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 15
G
New Guy
New Guy
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OK Thanks everyone for the advice! As suggested, I an going to pay a professional to install the trim strip.

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,249
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,249
I've given a little thought to that term "professional". especially since I are one. Basically a guy who was either shown how to do something or learned on his own, has repeated multiple times successfully, and now is paid to do said job. I figure that if an engineer in 1946-47 designed and came up with a method to install the seal, was done on the factory line by any number of workers, has been repeated by the aftermarket business since that time by many, many laborers, all of them human beings, that certainly, with a little patience and time, I can duplicate their efforts and do the work myself.

But, that's just me. I am in no way coming down on the choice you made to have this work done. I'm just thinking out loud. The professional will appreciate the business that you will be giving him. And it will be one less headache for you to deal with.

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
Originally Posted by MNSmith
The professional will appreciate the business that you will be giving him. And it will be one less headache for you to deal with.

I wholeheartedly agree with your comment but I'm just trying to work out what a professional should charge for what should realistically represent about 20 minutes work for said 'Pro'. grin

If it was just to pop in the lock strips and assuming all the other work was done,for such a job I would most likely tell the customer to stick me on their Christmas card list....or to return the favour sometime.

Last edited by jockbolter50; 08/24/2016 8:29 AM.

1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 41
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 41
Do you use the beadlock tool even with the chrome looking beadlock? I tried it but damaged the chrome surface when the beadlack passes through the tool.

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
Are you using a lubercant?

...click...

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Do not use a silicone-containing lubricant (it will contaminate future paint jobs).

Use an water-based lubricant: https://www.walmart.com/ip/K-Y-Personal-Water-Based-Lubricant-Jelly-2-oz/41737353

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
I used glass cleaner as the guy in the link suggest

Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 41
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 41
Thanks for the link. It appears I had the lock bead and tool at the wrong angle causing the lock bead to rub against the tool and thus causing surface damage.I used dish soap in a squirt bottle. I'll get back at it tomorrow.


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