The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Drag link upgrade.

I want to upgrade the drag link on my 1949 Chevy 1/2 ton 3100. Looking for the best way to do it and the specific parts needed. Don't want to do a lot of welding and/or reaming if I don't have to. Anybody have any ideas or project links? Searched the forums but haven't really seen anything. Thanks for the help.

What are you looking to accomplish? adjustability? or modern ends?

I believe there is a tech tip wrote on this, looking the tech tips above and see.

I made a adjustable one for my truck using modern style ends. This lets me dial in the straight ahead position of the gear box. I used these http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/sto...amp;Category_ID=1&Sub_Category_ID=18 , but other venders and even local parts stores sell them. For the center rod, I had one made. For a DIY project, find you one of the long cross bars used for the tie-rods and cut off the right hand threaded end keeping enough rod and the left hand threads. Now all you need to do is rethread the right side with easy to find 3/4" die. The left handed threads are the hard part to do at home, and the dies are more money then a stand right hand thread.

Joe

Looking to make it modern without a lot of headaches. Thanks for the suggestion, I will look into.

Here's the tech tip to use modern components which are a perfect fit together. The part numbers with their original applications are:

Napa 269-1118 sleeve Moog # ES 426 S application: 72-78 Ford LTD

Napa 269-2078 outer tie rod end Moog # ES 403 R application: 71-76 Chevrolet Caprice

Napa 269-2225 inner tie rod end Moog #ES 288 L application: 61-68 Dodge D100


The catch to this upgrade is that both the pitman and steering arms need to be taper reamed... one at 10 degrees and the other at 7.5 however no other welding or butchery is required. Pictures I took here.

Thanks. This is really helpful. Did a machine shop do the tapering and which parts do the tapers match up to?

I am looking to do this on my 51 1/2 ton also but I am confused...I read somewhere that if you buy the tie rod ends from CPP you don't have to do any reaming ? is this correct or not ? sounds pretty easy to do if that is indeed the case

I am looking to do this on my 51 1/2 ton also but I am confused...I read somewhere that if you buy the tie rod ends from CPP you don't have to do any reaming ? is this correct or not ? sounds pretty easy to do if that is indeed the case

The replacement tie-rods most venders sell are a straight shaft and drop right into the factory steering arms once you remove the ball. If you use them, you need to find a straight rod threaded on both ends, (one right, one left hand threaded) in order for the tie-rods to screw on to. The tech tip uses modern tapered shaft ends found at most any parts store, the catch is you need to ream out the steering arms with a tapered reamer. Speedway Motors sells the reamers, or you may find someone on this site willing to loan you some. My uncle is a machinist, so it was easy for me to get the shaft I needed when I converted mine.
CPP sells the whole kit, two ends and center bar, problem is the center bar is axle length, not drag link length.

Reaming the arms is something you can do at home with hand tools if the reamer is sharp.

Joe

I did this with my 1-ton, bought the non-tapered tierod ends from Filling Statiin I think, and a custom link from Michigan truck parts. The holes in my steering knuckle and pitman arm were not sized perfectly with the only non-tapered ends I could find. So I had to press in bushings. Then the center link threads weren't right so I wound up mocking everything up 100% dead on with the steering wheel and wheels straight and having a certified welder weld it together. It was a job. And these ends were for something like a 1929 sedan and they are a little loose already. My next set will be tapered from a late model 1-ton truck of some sort. Not a fun time.

In Curt B's post there is a mistake. NAPA 269-2078 is not the same as Moog # ES 403 R. NAPA 269-2078 is Moog # ES 288 L, the info is in the wrong order. Why this matters is because NAPA 269-2078 and Moog #ES 288L are no longer made. FYI, NAPA 269-2078 = Moog #ES 288 L = AC Delco 45A0021 = Raybestos 4011025 = McQuay Norris ES 288 L = Affinia ES 288 L = Dayton 310138 = Chrysler 2240672. I found only one of those on ebay (from Beirut, Lebenon!) and will be able to complete this swap but I doubt many folks will be able to find that discontinued part. Below is the info as Curt B wrote but edited for correctness.

EDIT: Rare Parts has the equivalent of Moog ES 288L,Rare Parts # RP26691 or 202-RP26691. $70 from Jegs.com.

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Napa 269-1118 sleeve Moog # ES 426 S application: 72-78 Ford LTD

Napa 269-2225 inner tie rod end Moog # ES 403 R application: 71-76 Chevrolet Caprice

Napa 269-2078 outer tie rod end Moog #ES 288 L, Rare Parts # RP26691 or 202-RP26691 application: 61-68 Dodge D100

David