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| | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 249 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 249 | Mine has peeling caulking and there is the rust that is in the seam. I want to fix it all and thinking of going to a wire wheel first but then I am not sure what to do next. Would something like rust morte work okay as it would weep into the seam? One body shop guy suggested using a torch to turn the rust to scale and then wire wheel and paint. Would regular latex caulk be good to seal it with? I'm not sure what the factory stuff was. Any comments on this kind or repair? The truck has a patina type finish and is not restored and probably will not be while I own it. I just want to stop the deterioration that is going on.
1950 3600
1951 4400
Gazz
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | I would scrape out as much caulking and rust as possible then use a ureathane seam seal caulking. Its available at auto paint stores in a caulking tube
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 249 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 249 | Thanks for the response!
The caulking seems to peel away in long stringy pieces - I think the rust is allowing it to do that.
I'll check the local auto parts place for urethane caulking.
Last edited by Gazz; 08/07/2016 10:18 PM.
1950 3600
1951 4400
Gazz
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | We have used a rust converter after wire-brushing as far down into the seam/crack as possible.
We then applied urethane seam-seal caulking that is supposedly compatible with the PPG primer that we use.
That was a few years ago - the cab is still in primer, so this is not a real good test/report on the final result.
It seems prudent to convert the rust down-in the seam before caulking/priming? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 178 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 178 | My 47 3100 had no caulking. It must have departed long ago. I wanted to retain the patina but stop further deterioration as well. So I taped off about 1/4 inch above and below the seam and media blasted with the black stuff from HFT. It looked so nice afterwards I just scuffed it and primed with red oxide primer. Then found the closest satin rattle can paint I cound find and dusted a light coat.
Have you ever noticed that anyone driving slower than you is an idiot and anyone driving faster than you is a maniac? - George Carlin
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,280 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,280 | I'm with Marko. Media blasting will do the best job. I would follow it up with Ospho, and wipe it down with acetone after 24 hours and prime it, force a bead of sealer into the seam wiping away the excess, then paint it.
A wire wheel will likely just beat rust particles into the seam which will come back to haunt you.
Carl
Last edited by 52Carl; 08/10/2016 3:08 AM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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