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Hello fellow Stovebolters. I think this forum will solve all my peomlems and answer all my question. Not to mention direct my path without breaking me. I have a 55 five window first series Chevy 3100 I have it all apart and want to put it back stock but with safty and ease of driving in mind. I have a 261 inline that I want to go with duel exhaust and carbs. I picked up a Delco Remi 12 volt generator with a power steering pump all in one. So obviosly power stering. Rackin pinion steering any one? I picked up a THM 700-R4 transmission. I want to go with disc brakes front and hopefull back. The modification packages can get very expensive. Any one out there "been there done that"? I have come across some old timers and the rampand rave about saving lots of money by taking this and that out of a junk yard. Cleaning them up and completing the same job but having parts more replacable.
Any help out there? is there a website for matching/swapping parts?

RB55

For the power steering, unless you pan of an IFS swap, rack and pinion is pretty much out. Those do not work very well with an I beam axle, partly due to the mickey mouse steering shaft setup required, but also due to the excessive amount to extra weight added to the axle itself. There are other ways of getting power steering, mostly using either a Saginaw or Toyota steering box. The former will be much easier to acquire, the latter fits better.
The 700R4 will require an adapter plate for the 261, either Langdon's or Buffalo will have the kits required.
As far as getting parts from the salvage yards, it depends on what parts you're after as to whether you're really saving anything. You have to pretty much assume anything from a salvage yeard will require refurbishing, so you need to take that into account. Things like transmissions, rear ends, engines, and perhaps any non-wear items will be fine from the salvage yard. But some items, like steering gear and brake compnents, either require special equipment to refurbish, or are simply more cost effective to get new/reman from the parts store, with perhaps salvage yard parts only being good for a core. Some parts, such as tie rods and brake rotors/drums, new is the only way to go, as they are generally non-serviceable, and not worth messing with, as they can be purchased new for very reasonable prices.
Now, if you're needing to know what parts are used on other vehicles, most salvage yards will have a Hollander manual, which has all the interchange information. The Hollander manuals are also available to the general public, but are somewhat spendy.

For brakes, look at the post about 6 lug conversions to disk brakes, that will explain all about keeping the 6 lug nut wheels. If you go to modern 5 on 4 3/4 lug pattern, then you open up a lot more brake systems and wheel choices. Modern rear axles will be easy to come buy, you will need to swap it anyway if going with auto trans. It would be best to purchase the complete system from one vender, that way you get matching booster and master cylinder compatible with the size of calipers being used. You can really open up a can of worms when it comes to master cylinder bore sizes.

If you gear the truck correctly, you can use a standard 3 speed automatic transmission, the 261 will have plenty of torque to pull a 3.08 or higher gear. I suspect it is like most engines, it has a "sweet spot" it will run in and give decent fuel mileage. If you try and lug it down with to much overdrive, the mileage will suffer. The 200R4 would be an easier swap due to size, not sure about cost, both are expensive. I like the T350, its light weight, strong, shifts good, and easy to come by, you can even get them with lock up converters.

Joe

Thank you Bill.

Thanks Joe. I already have the transmission a 1989 THM700-R4. I bought it for $200.00. If I can find a rear end for a six lug with the correct gear ratio and disc brakes that would be great. I have the original tires for it as well as a set od radials.

Ron

Have heard that the Colorado/Canyon six lug disc brake rear will fit but sure would do some measuring before parting with your cash. They had OD automatics so gears should be correct.

The Colorado/Canyon rear is about the right width, it's only an inch wider. But it has drum brakes, not disks.

The Hummer H3 used rear discs. It may be possible to convert the Colorado/Canyon rear to disc without too much hassle, since they use the same chassis.

It may also be possible to convert to Silverado/Tahoe discs also. If you go to a GM dealer, you can get the bracket, backing plate, & hardware for less than $200.

The H3, I believe, used semi floating 14 bolt, some with discs, can convert to Eldo rear discs if necessary.

Ed

What Toyota model(s) and years steering box do you need for this change over? Do any other steering parts also need to be acquired from the Toyota? Thanks.

You're thinking of the H2, which was really nothing more than a rebodied 3/4 ton Suburban. They came with factory rear disk brakes.

The 04 and newer Nissan Frontiers use a Dana rear with disc brakes. They are 63" wide. I'm assuming the Xterra is the same. Earlier Frontiers are drum brake.

The 2004 Xterra had disk brakes with 4.64 gear ratio.
Starting in 2005 most of them had 3.13 gear ratio.
The good thing is that the door jam sticker has the gear ratio on it. They are all limited slip.
Carl