The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop 51 3600 build, questions

Hello all, been a while but I have a fire back under me to get my 51 built. Without boring you too much here is what I have and my plans with questions.

1951 3600, stock besides the 235 6 banger. I had bought a 1997 s-10 ex-cab to do a chassis swap a few years back but am now scraping that idea and going to build off the original chassis.

I have a 3100 front end (spindle to spindle, springs, steering links etc) so that I can do the disc conversion that so many companies make.

I have been building in my head as well as planning out on paper, making spreadsheets of companies and costs of things.

Here is my plan.

Doing a power steering conversion from company such as Westerchassisinc.com. my question is when doing this, I thought I read I’ll need to swap my shock location because of the box moving forward and other side of the rail, is this correct and is there a kit or just use the mounts for the right on the left and the left on the right type of thing?

I have a BBC (454) I am going to do a rebuild on and not go too crazy with HP, mate it with a built 700R4 with a 9 inch in the rear.

I’ll get a rewire kit from someone like America Autowire, get a simple upholstery kit. For the most part I am going to keep most of it stock with the exceptions of the important (safety items).

So at this point I guess my only question is about the front shock location when doing the power steering conversion. Also any input or ideas or suggestions would be great. Thank you and looking forward to getting on this build (early September is what I am shooting for)

1. Other vendors have PS conversion kits also.
2. How are you going to match front and rear lugs/wheels?
3. Don't think the Toyota gear box method needs shocks moved.
4. The Saginaw method needs top mount relocated (moved rearward). The bottom mount is flipped front to back NOT left to right, right to left. The article you may have seen online is incorrect and has been corrected in red notes.
5. I don't think your list allows for you to call it mostly stock. But that's OK. You're leaning towards RestoMod unless you lower or raise it...or change any body/interior features. Then there are other names, dirty names.

Correct there are many vendors that make the PS conversion, that is just one that I listed for reference. Does anyone have experience with this particular vendor?

I am going to have to have the Rear axles re-drilled, no biggy there.

I'll have to look up the Toyota method I guess.

Do you by chance have a link to the article that you are referencing?

I guess I should have said, stock looking meaning yes, not lowering or tubbing, or leather bucket seats, no tilt column (for now). But also not got the "rat rod" look, I plan to make this a safe, easy driving truck that I can go to home depot, the store, or on a cruise with and not worry about much.

Just mentioning that if you read somewhere that it's left to right, it's not.
CPP, American Classic Truck Parts, Classic Parts of America. Your vendor seems to be a reasonable price. The design of the Saginaw style seems to pretty much the same. Vendor choice is up to you. Good and bad stories from them all.

I have done Toyota conversions but not on an AD truck. The Toyota box mounts in the stock location on the TF trucks that I have done. AD trucks with a V-8 conversion have issues with engine/exhaust/steering box clearance because of the narrow frame and the location of the stock steering box. A change in location would also affect other steering components.
If I was going to engage in this endeavor I would need to physically see a conversion that works and how it fits together. I believe a big block would present a number of issues with exhaust clearances, mounts, brake systems, cooling system, etc.
These can all be overcome but it takes planning and of course cash.

It will fit. The Saginaw on outside of frame gives exhaust clearance. The BBC extra length vs SBC is in the front of mounts. Use short water pump and move rad forward. Take off front sheet metal and mock up motor and etc.. It's all fun. Weighs less than 235 6 CYL. Use all the aluminum parts you can afford.

Do you also plan to remove the "3600" badging? Everything else original appears to be headed for the scrap heap.
Jerry

It's hard to beat a long cruiser with lots of cubic inches from a stock engine. It can be done with lots of boost or with cubic money but reliability goes out the window. Built a 51 GMC with a 472 Cadillac that got worn out at 200K and now has a what was fresh 500ci with about 170K on it. Could jump in it right now and drive anywhere it wouldn't have to swim. With a good p/s set up and more caster it will track so straight you could set the cruise and take a nap in the bed. Remember, 300mph dragsters have straight axles and they go pretty straight.

Good stuff thanks for the reassuring comments. I know lots of people will frown on me about taking the stock parts out of it and putting in aftermarket items, but you know what it is my truck. And yes I am keeping the 3600 badging on it, might even find some 6 cylinder badge from a 60's style car and put on the side finder just because I can (sarcasm). I really do appreciate all the positive comments and the "I've done" stories, it give me hope that I can and will do this. Once I start on this build I will keep everyone up to date and well as keep a build log.

again thank you all.

Hello again all. finally going to start buying parts for my build. I will be going with the EZ-Chassis Swap 2 inch body drop kit for the main "swap" items.

My question is about the wiring harness, I am thinking that I will want to replace it with something newer and able to be "ran" where I want it to go. I plan to keep the fuel injections, so I have read I will nee dot get the Brain flashed. But as far as wiring harness, I am looking for guys that have done this swap or have experience/ideas on where and what to get.

thank you.