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| | | Forums66 Topics128,078 Posts1,055,936 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | I'm just about ready to spray my upper cab with acrylic enamel. I've spent the last two weeks prepping drip rails, welding holes, grinding and sanding. I took everything down to bare metal, used a phosphoric acid metal prep, applied 3 coats of Rust Bullet to drip rails, then sprayed a few coats of etch primer. The last coat of etch primer went on this morning along with some seam sealer around drip rails. I'm planning on doing 2 coats of flat white Dupont tomorrow. Then 2 more on Thursday. So, did I miss anything? Or am I ready for top coat? Sealer over the etch primer? Anything between the etch and top? Just shut up and shoot? -David | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | take yer pick  did you do any sanding on the primer? use a primer-surfacer? I'd use at least a sealer, but then I'm not a painter either Bill | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | I'm gonna sand just a tad before the enamel. It's actually pretty good. I was planning on letting it sit over the weekend and then wet sanding top coat next week. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | that'd prolly do, but I'd still look into using a sealer, but you should check on what's usual for the paint type/brand you're using
Bill | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 36 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 36 | what etching primer did you use? what paint single or bc let me know I took dupont's chroma system class a few years back with etching primer you need to either primer over or seal over.
DustyG.
1952 Chevy 1.5 ton 1949 Gmc 2 ton flatbed Dump
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | I used Mar Hyde self etching primer. Mar-Hyde | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | I just went and bought some primer surfacer. Gonna do a couple coats of that and then the white tomorrow. -David | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 36 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 36 | sounds good. just make sure that all of your areas around opennnings, edges corners are sanded down. those are the main spots people miss of forget.
DustyG.
1952 Chevy 1.5 ton 1949 Gmc 2 ton flatbed Dump
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | White is easy. Just practice on a scrap piece to set up your gun because color never sprays the same as primer.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | Alrighty, will do. Didn't like that primer surfacer at all. It was VERY dusty. Didn't have any dust problems with the Rust Bullet or the etch primer. Didn't like the seam sealer either. Had the consistency, look and feel of tub/tile caulk. Glad to hear white is easy as I'm a bit concerned about jacking things up. I've spent so much time prepping and trying to get this right. You'll see a grown man cry if I've gotta start all over. Hopefully, I'll get a couple coats of white on tomorrow (after I sand and rinse and clean that darn primer surfacer). -David | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | Get the 3M seam sealer that is two parts, its called self-leveling, works good. Brian | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 622 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 622 | You won't have to start over if you make a mistake on the final coat. In a worst case scenario, you'd have to wet sand the top coat and repaint. That's not a huge deal. A pain in the butt but nothing to freak about. Many painters plan on putting two top coats on anyway. Just make sure that your paint is mixed properly so that it flows out well and check your gun settings before you begin shooting.
delete my account and pictures
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 221 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 221 | Rule #1 when you have it as clean as possible clean it again. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | OK, is there something specific I should paint over the seam sealer with? A guy at work said something about "Bulldog". And then topcoat over it. Does this sound familiar? Jury's still out on the seam sealer I already applied. Gotta check it in the morning. -David | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 36 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 36 | the only thing that I would add to the paint is some flex additive. by dupont code 2350s. then you will never have to wory about cracks on the seams
DustyG.
1952 Chevy 1.5 ton 1949 Gmc 2 ton flatbed Dump
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