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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,107 Posts1,056,225 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | This is sort of a follow up to my post about 60-66 roof recipe. Here's what I settled on. I took the rust rail, er, I mean the drip rail trough around roof down to bare metal and ground the pits away as much as possible. I'm going to use a metal prep with phosphoric acid to get at the little pits and stuff I couldn't get rid of. Then I'm going to use "Rust Bullet" (like POR 15) around the trough and associated seams. After a little seam sealer, I will apply self etching primer to entire roof and upper cab area and follow up with Dupont Nason acrylic enamel in flat white. My two main questions are these: 1. Does this sound a decent plan for a d.i.y.'er on a tight budget (keeping in mind this is a beater, daily driver that I just want to look a little better and add some life expectancy)? 2. Seems most folks use a clear coat over Nason. The guy at the paint store said I don't need it if I only want flat white. Should I use a clear coat with a flattener to add durabilty against the elements? Getting a good gloss is not the only reason a clear coat is used , right? -David | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | Your plan sounds a lot like mine,, I have used the Rust Bullet & it seems to be OK. I think you do want some sort of clearcoat on base coat type paint. I believe it seals the paint completely. Brian | | |
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