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| | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 125 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 125 | Has anyone had experience not using a booster on their master cylinder? Do you have to have a heavy foot?
Im installing disc brakes on the front of my 53 1300 and installing a dual reservoir cylinder so wondered about the need for a booster. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 226 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 226 | I vote for a vacuum booster. They make booster/dual master cyls that bolt into the stock location. That is what I used on my 51 one ton disc brake conversion and the brakes are GREAT! | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 | Why would you not want to use a booster? If I remember correctly, disc brakes use a larger piston in the master cylinder than manual brakes. I believe something like 1-1/8" vs 7/8". This would require a very heavy foot indeed.
Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | One thing you have to remember, disk brakes are not self energizing like the Bendix style drum brakes your truck comes with. That will lead to more pedal effort without a booster. Small, lightweight cars, like early style hot rods and small sports cars can get away with it better that heavier cars and trucks. Even with the manual brake specific master cylinder, the pedal effort is much higher than it is for manual drums. Best bet is if you're going to swap to disk, go ahead and do the power conversion as well. There's plenty of vacuum boosters on the market for a stock location mounting.
Bill Burmeister
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