The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts She said yes, now I have a mess! Help with 6400 brake issue.

I have recently bought a 1956 6400 dump. perhaps its called a viking. I am not sure. this is my very first project truck. I believe it has a 261 in it. changed the gas and filter and got it running pretty well altho its hard to start when its cold.

I have a soft brake pedal on the first two pumps then it gets hard as a rock and the brakes stick. I intend to redo this whole truck in a two stage resto. this first stage is a get it on the road and use it to move gravel into my yard and enjoy driving it phase. it will probably get a v8 and somewhere along the line. will see. I notice there is a sequence to bleeding these brakes. I know the previous owner put a m/c in it. my question is with limited wrench time and tools should I have a shop fix these brakes or is this a project a newbie might be able to do with some guidance. I have fair mechanical skills. any comments appreciated, thanks.

you can fix the brakes yourself, no need to take it to a shop, chances are they wouldn't know how to do it properly anyway. as far as the brakes sticking, that sounds like the wheel cylinders need rebuilt or replaced. also try bleeding the system, might help with the spongy pedal, procedure is as follows:

bleed pass. rear upper wheel cyl.
lower pass. rear lower wheel cyl.
drivers upper rear wheel cyl.
drivers lower rear wheel cyl.
pass. front wheel cyl.
drivers front wheel cyl.

also, try adjusting the brake shoes until there is a heavy drag when you turn them by hand.

Richard

Welcome to the forum! I also recently acquired my first stovebolt, and it's a '55.2 6400 like yours. My brake pedal goes straight to the floor, and doesn't even come back again. I got its 261 started with fresh gas in an auxiliary can, new points, new condensor, and a new filter. I'm in a similar position as you, just haven't had time to tackle the brakes. I don't think it's something I'd hand off to someone else. You can learn it, and there's plenty of folks here to guide you. More importantly, it'll familiarize you with your own truck, which will be invaluable when it acts up in the future.

If you want to make sure it's a 261, just look for the "captains bars" in the casting, or post your casting number (found on the passenger side of the block) and we can look it up. Here's what mine looks like:
261 casting number

Also, I think the terms Apache/Viking/Spartan didn't come out until '58, when they got the dual headlights. What you have would certainly be a Viking though, if it were a couple years newer.

If you have a vacuum brake booster that will have to be bled also. You would be ahead to get a shop manual or check the online manual project link for more information.

If you have a Hydrovac (brake booster) it will have two bleeders that should be done first, (the one up high on the Hydrovac is done first, then the one on the end of the cylinder) and then follow Richard's list shown above.

Mike B

Paul,

There should be a brake pedal return spring if the pedal is free to move, I recommend doing the wheel cylinders, then go to the master, that way you know what you are dealing with. Get a shop manual!

Ed

Muckemm,

Get the 261 running well, see how you like it, before you think about desecrating your truck with a V-8.

Ed

Thanks Materman, so this truck does not have a hydrovac brake system?

10-4 thats what I thought. thanks

thanks I hunt one down.

for sure.

welcome to the site! You also need to loosen (I think it is the top show on the rear) all the way before bleeding to make sure you get all the air out. I made a pressure bleeder out of a plastic garden sprayer and it makes bleeding a lot easier!

thanks I'll do that