The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Need a good sander

Hey there bolters? I was wondering where i could buy a really good sander so i can start sanding down my 64? Wheres a good place to buy one? THank you....BB22

Mac tools make a great D/A sander they cost around three hundred .but that type of sander is more for finishing not starting if your looking to strip your bolt down I would use a chemical stripper tal strip seems to be the best that I found,or you could try the big sander known as a bondo buster holds an eight in ch round piece of forty grit put on your mask and let rip! happy haulin Bent!

I have been using a DA sander from Harbor Freight for the past 2 years with no problems. It was $20 on sale. Of course you will need a compressor to use such a sander.

Well I dont want to sand blast it because I dont have a special room for that. I dont have a good compressor. I'll probably a new one when i have money. Probably just go to sears or something. I dont know. Im not trying get it to bare metal. Just want to sand all the rest down then primer it with rattle cans. Let me know wat you think about this. I like other opinions. I have no clue. Would like to attend a body school for this stuff.

BB22,
We had great luck with a 4.5" angle grinder with a special synthetic sanding pad made by 3M (I'd give you the number but most of our body working tools are in my Dad's garage). You can get them at any hardware store.

Waaaaaay back when we started our truck (before we acquired decent tools), we used the same disk made for an electric drill. That worked well, but the angle grinder achieves much higher RPMs and makes really quick work of the sanding - right down to metal in no time at all. Plus it has much better durability than conventional circular paper disks.

We also used electric orbital sanders (palm type) for working body filler, ending with lots and lots of hand sanding with a rubber block and sandpaper. If you don't need to get to bare metal, a small electric hand sander will really go along way.

I personally don't recommend wire brushes on an electric drill, since the brush bits break off and fly into eyes or fingers nearby. I will use them for fine angle work when necessary, though.

Those are my opinons anyway (for whatever that's worth). If you want part numbers, let me know and I can post them for you by tomorrow evening.

P.S. I just picked up a pneumatic block-style orbital sander for Dad for father's day yesterday (can't wait to borrow it!!).

sand blasting? who said that cant find it chemical striper,or if all you want is a spray bomb splash just scuff it by hand and have at er then when youve got the time money and some experience you can do a proper job

I have used the 3M pads with the angle grinder and they work really well, just make sure they are stuck to the base because those suckers really fly if they come loose. The braided cone wirebrushes work well too in hard to reach areas. Here's an idea, the airplane painters use an old spray gun and paint the airplane with stripper and then pressure wash most of the paint off. What about doing the same to a truck or driving it down to the local coin op car wash?

I like all your guys tips and ideas. THank you for the help. Yea kim i would like that. Send me the part numbers.

I got an electric BOSCH - random orbital, variable speed sander with a little dust bag on it. I is a little dirty but not too bad. With the 80 disks it eats old paint well. Takes a little time but very little effort and NO AIR NEEDED.

Buddy

Here's the information I promised.

All part numbers are for 3M products. All are available in my local tool shop/home store.

If you want to try the electric drill and Scotch Pad:

5" Stripper Wheel Part No. 9173NA. Price: $6.99
Paint and Stripper Kit. Part No. 9419NA. Price $5.46
(Kim's favorite for drill) Stripper Wheel. Part No. 9099NA. Price: $6.99

For the angle grinder approach you will require a special adapter AND the disk.

4" Adapter. Part No. 9683. Price: $9.97
4" Sanding Disk. Part No. 9684. Price: $12.99

Have fun and remember, every project is an excuse to buy more tools!

I also got a few of those 'sandblaster' set ups. A little pricey, but its a backing wheel that goes on standard grinder, then you have the sanding discs that spin on like a sheet metal nut on trim. They work quite well and showed up at the Lowe's but I don't think they'll continue to carry them. Been nice for stripping and smoothing out ugly stick welds on my 47 willys.

Man o man, you gotta be VERY careful if you are going to put an angle grinder to your truck. The big problem with an angle grinder is that it only spins in one fixed motion, that's to say that if you hold the sander(angle grinder) in one spot for even a secodn you will dig (sand, grind, etc) a huge pit in the body. Simply because they spin so fast and only in one motion makes this happen. It will usually happen on the outer edge of the sanding disk, this is where the disk spins the fastest and the edge of material just wants to bite in!.


Get a D/A wich means Dual action sander. This is not an orbital sander. It is a spinning and orbital in one tool. IT spins one direction(counterclockwise) while it orbits in another direction(clockwise). This strange sounding motion allows you to use the sander without fear of biting into the bodywork.

I have a craftsman da that I bought rebuilt at the SEARS repair center for $40. IT was a $120 tool then. I'm sure there is a sears repair center near you. They sell all kinds of great rebuilt tools, I have a few and all have performed very well for me.
My da is electric, you can get air powered as weel, all about what set up you have/need.

The da's all have differnt ways of attaching sandpaper(buffers, etc). Some are sticky pads, some are velcro. You can get anywhere from 24 grit all the way to 400 or higher for the DA.

a word of advice, all powered sanders will be prone to making high and low spots. as the sander goes over the surface, it will pretty much mimic the surface below it. if it's wavy gravy you'll end up with the same. I don't know what kind of finish you are looking for, but if you want it smooth as glass, then you will need to hand sand WITH A BLOCK.

Invest in some good sandpaper and a long block and it will bring those high spots down in no time. you can get special paints that dry incredibly fast that are called guide coats. you spray a contrasting color of a guide coat over your work, and as you block sand it will hit the high spots first, leaving you with low spots that still have that guide coat on them. hit them with some body filler, spot putty, or glazing(your choice) and guide coat it again till you get it right. But again, this method will bring you a show car glass finish. IT does take lots of effort and time, but is usually well worth it.

You can go to your local auto-body supply store and they should be able help you figure out which tools and supplies to best help you out.

Oh and remember flat paint hides the imperfectiosn, glossy brings them out!

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