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| | | | Joined: Oct 2014 Posts: 56 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2014 Posts: 56 | Hey all,
Just finished a successful 12v conversion on my '52 3100 including what I felt was a much needed upgrade to an HEI distributor and coil pack from TSP. Looking forward to some increase reliability!
What I am stumped on is the timing. Where should the timing with an HEI be set on the 216? I have spent a ton of time reading many different opinions and "facts" but I figured when dealing with stovebolts its always best to go to the one who love their trucks as much as I do and not random "expert".
Any one have some real world experience with this? Also any input on plug gap you are using would be great as well. Thinking .045 is about right.
All the best!
Last edited by Matties; 05/05/2016 5:09 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | What did you have it set at without the HEI? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | You set the timing to the same specks as the old point dist. In creasing the plug gap to .045 is good.
Last edited by Wrenchbender Ret.; 05/06/2016 8:47 PM. Reason: Plug gap not point gap
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 357 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 357 | Hi I have a 250 with a HEI and set timming to around 18 advanced. I know It scared me, yet it worked
Julian Carter
1970 Triumph GT6
1967 Triumph TR4A
1952 Chevy 3600
1948 MG-TC
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 357 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 357 | Sorry Don't remember the gap it was huge also. I'll look around for my info.
Julian Carter
1970 Triumph GT6
1967 Triumph TR4A
1952 Chevy 3600
1948 MG-TC
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 357 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 357 |
Julian Carter
1970 Triumph GT6
1967 Triumph TR4A
1952 Chevy 3600
1948 MG-TC
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,195 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,195 | Since the fuel one uses has a lot to do with how the engines run, set your timing where the points unit was to start out. Drive it some and see how it acts, and then start advancing it a few degrees at a time. You are looking for the spot where it just starts to ping/knock under a load. Find a long hill and make several trips up it in the highest gear it will pull and still keep a decent speed. If the ping goes away under full throttle and cruise rpm, this is where you leave the timing, assuming it starts without kick back. My 250 is 8 to 10 degrees advanced over factory settings, I haven't checked it for years so I don't remember just where its set.
Joe | | | | | Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 385 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 385 | When you get the HEI unit from Tom L he indicates a .064 gap should be used with champion rj14yc plugs. Timing is a strange thing for me. I cant seem to ever hear a knock after advancing it it over and over. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,195 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,195 | You may not hear it with decent fuel and cool weather. The engine is pretty low on compression anyway, so go a few degrees over and drive it awhile to see how the mileage is.
Joe | | |
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