On the 48 2ton, hinges repinned, doors aligned in the openings, striker plates centered on the latch and as far out as possible, with rubber bumpers removed. 1 door has the original latch - ratchet type, the other door has replacement latch, new over center type.
Door 1 will latch because of the ratchet. The harder you slam it the tighter the door closes (but never quite flush) door 2 will never latch (safety catch only) because you can't close it tight enough. New glue on weather stripping from one of the major suppliers fits 47-5? Chevy truck. Picture of it look the same on a couple of sites. It just seems too thick! I don't see any other choice listed? Anyone else found this problem? Is there another replacement?
Yes there is a thinner rubber. I had to pull mine off and redo it with the thinner stuff. If I recall I got mine from the filling station. It is pricy.
OK, that is the profile I have too. Nice and soft and spongy. But seriously, even with a 2 handed slam, it won't compress to bring the door flush for a complete latch.
I will be starting this weather strip next week. I think I have the thicker one as well, the one on the right in DADS50 photo. I bought mine in a kit, came with cab windlace rubber, lower windlace rubber, and door rubber seal. Wonder how many others have/had this problem.
1947.5 Chevy 4100 red primer 1951 Chevy 4400 grey primer
Hmm... I would think that the left one would squish better than the one on the right. Guess I'll find out next week when I put mine on. Is there a specific way it goes on?
1947.5 Chevy 4100 red primer 1951 Chevy 4400 grey primer
I used weatherstripping from Patricks. It is thin, and worked well. I am able to close the doors on my Carryall without difficulty, after some adjustment. We did remove the doors- i don't know how you can go it without removing them.
Best,
Lisa
1952 Chevy Carryall in completely original condition Pulled out of a barn in Colorado high desert
I have the drivers door latching now. It was an insane amount of work, all because, like so many other parts I've purchased, reproduction door latches are a pile of S***. After checking the vendors carefully I found a reproduction ratchet latch. It was so badly built that it took so much pressure to start the latch moving, that it would snap over center like the first one. Everything in the latch as well as the latch plates are hardened so any work on them has to be done with a stone. After cleaning up the burrs and badly finished edges in the latch and replacing one of the springs, all the rest of the work was done on the latch plate and cab. The latch plate had to be moved outward considerable. That meant slotting the bolt holes in the cab (which allowed vertical movement only) twice their width and grinding off a bit of the back of the countersinks on the latch to allow it to move out. The door now latches with the door flush with the body (should be a little above the surface) but at that point the edge of the latch plate is less than 1/8" of the inside surface of the door flange. No room for the rubber bumpers and a good 3/8" closer than design.
The original latch on the passenger side can be pushed with your thumb through the ratchet engagement. The new one still can't be moved without a pry bar or hammer. So much junk.
