The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 4100 rear brakes question - drum removal

In the process of fixing the brakes on my '50 4100. It has 15"x3" drums on the back with a single wheel cylinder and integrated emergency brake. The truck sat for nearly 40 years so everything is pretty well stuck. The wheels turn - but the adjustment is very close and I cannot get the drums off as a result. I am not familiar with the inards on these brakes. Anyone got any tricks I can use to get these things apart without tearing everything up? What I'd really like to see is some good pictures of what one of these brake assemblies looks like the drum off. Might help me come up with my own game plan.

My son's 46 2 ton. Rear drums would not pull off.

I turned the brake adjusters counter clockwise to back off the shoes and increase the shoe to drum clearance.

Then the drums came off easy.

I just fought the brake drums on my 81 toyota... totally different vehicle i know, but i had the same symptoms. wheel would spin, but drum wouldn't move.

It took quite a while but i used a propane torch and a hammer. heating around the the inside of the lugs then knocking around the perimeter of the drum.. heat, beat, repeat until it finally broke loose. Good luck!

The problem I have is that the adjusters are seized because the truck has been sitting up for 40 years. I have been working on and studying this problem for 2 days now. This evening I drilled a single 1/2" hole in the front of the brake drum at the same level as the wheel cylinder/adjuster and was able to start busting up the wheel cylinder with a hammer and a punch. Eventually I'll have it broke apart enough that the shoes will relax and I will be able to get the drum off. I was also able to get my bore scope through that hole so that I could assess the situation. I did try penetrating oil and a hammer and punch on the adjusters from the front side but with no luck. Eventually one of the adjusters cracked and broke. It really killed me to have to destroy those wheel cylinders, but it's the least invasive option. I can replace them, its just going to cost me a small fortune.

Do those drums have slotted head, counter sunk screws that hold them to the axle flange?

These are not floating drums John. The drum is physically attached to the wheel hub and comes off the spindle as an assembly. The reason I cannot get them off is because the shoe adjustment is very close and there is a ridge or a rusted area on the inboard part of the brake surface that is acting as a 'stop'. The adjusters are seized and I cannot back them off off in order to create clearance between the shoe and the drum.

Remove the outer bearing so you can rock the drum back and forth.

I have sometimes been able to carefully spray penetrating oil in through the adjusting slot in the backing plate and then after a couple days, tap on the adjuster tangs and get it to break free.

I have done all of the above guys. IT SAT FOR 40 YEARS.

Also, it has the Huck style brakes on it, unlike a Bendix brake, the shoes are very secure. You can't waller them out of position like you can with a Bendix type brake.

Sorry, can't help on this one.

If I'm in the mood whenever I get ready to start on the other side I may make a video of how I am going about doing this. Maybe it'll save someone else some frustration in the future. I was pleased with my results on the first one.

on my 46 2-ton i put the wheel back on to help get the drum off, all together its heavy, but gives you something to push and pull on and i eventually got them off.