The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop zero rust

If i already have a primer down can I put zero rust over the primer or do I need to strip it and put zero rust on the bare metal to receive the benefits of zero rust
Thanks

Brady,
Understand we are talking shades of gray here, but yes the ZR would work better direct to metal. It's resistance to undercutting and encroachment of rust sideways will be lessened with the primer on, but unless you are planning on going around punching holes in the paint and leaving them unrepaired for extended periods, I doubt you'd ever know the difference, even in Ms.

Bruce Palmer
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Bruce,
I have had my c.o.e. body acid dipped,would it be a problem if I sprayed the outside to keep from rusting before sending it out for final body work and paint, or should I leave the outside bare until the body shop finishes there work? I still need to use some of the body parts for fit-up and I know handling them with bare hands will start rusting again.Thank you for your help..

My recent research has taught me you need to epoxy prime your pieces to avoid the rust. Zero Rust may not agree with the paints used later on but would be perfect for the underneath and inside of the cab and fenders.

Tony is right and I tend to assume everyone has made that connection. Zero Rust is best used where it will provide it's sealing protection by itself.
A lifting problem under some of the mega $$$$ topcoats out there will put a real severe hole in a guy's lunch money to say nothing of the ol' attitude. Now that's not to say you can't slobber undercoat or bedliner all over ZR, just be careful with the $150/gallon stuff.

As for the COE, I would think the body guys would want it raw to do the body work and unless they are storing it underwater, they should have plenty of open time before problems occur.

Bruce Palmer
[email protected]

Thanks for the help Tony and Bruce. Epoxy primer it will be.I just need to handle it a lot before it goes to body shop.

If I put zero rust down and then other primers over will the paint lift later on.

That's what I'd like to know too, Brady.

I have used ZR exclusively on my 54 from frame to body but on the previous advice of Bruce I did not use it on the top surfaces of the body with the exception of one panel.
The rear panel I transplanted to the 5 window cab had been previously stripped to bare, metal prepped and then coated with black ZR. It sat this way for about two years before I removed from the old cab for the transplant. Once the panel was on I scuffed it with 220 grit and then primed over that with Epoxy Primer. It was another year before I did further prep on that panel for the top coat which included additional sandable primer and then a final seal coat of epoxy primer before the color was laid down. I do not believe I will have any problems with the paint system but I would not use ZR as an initial base without letting it cure very well over a matter of months then prepping it as I described.

ZR Rocks in my opinion.

WOW!! Six years between messages? Seem like just yesterday.

A couple of points should be touched on here. The first having to do with shrinkage. ZR being 54% solids by volume will shrink 50% during the drying phase thus shrinking down into any surface defects telegraphing any sanding scratches thru the final finish. If that isn't going to be a problem you may apply your top coat almost wet on wet and allow the two to cure out together.

If shrinkage and telegraphing will be a problem, allow the ZR thirty days to achieve full shrinkage and build your sandable sytem on top of the fully cured ZR film. Fully cured ZR should have no adverse reaction to subsequent coatings. If there were to be a reaction, it would happen more NOW than LATER.