The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Lower wind lace screws

The screws on my '54 driver side lower windlace holder came out without a problem. My passenger side one are much more rusted, nearly stripped, and they are stuck. I've soaked them in penetrating oil, tried everything and they won't budge. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions on what I may be able to do?

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/bolt_removal.html

Try propane torch heat.

Try penetrating oil and tapping/punching with a hammer on a screwdriver in the head of the screw.

Try to punch the screw from below.

Can you get a vise-grip on the head?

My WAG regarding why the "outside" screws are harder to remove: that's the wetter side of the road?

Excuse my ignorance, but what is a windlace? I've seen it mentioned on here before but never any pictures and I've Googled it without results.

It is one name for the rubber seal that is attached to the door opening on the cab: the "door opening weatherstrip"

In your 1953, the upper windlace (door opening weatherstrip) is held in a channel that goes around the opening of the door - except at the floor, at the door opening (see link below, "body sill weatherstrip retainer").

In the lower door opening - at the floor, that lower rubber windlace seal in held down with a metal strip.

lower windlace

door opening, upper windlace

Here is the metal strip - lower windlace retainer (referred-to in step 11: "body sill weatherstrip retainer")

Thanks. I need to replace all mine as well.

Yeah, I wanted to see if I could get it without a torch since they are in the interior of the cab. I don't want to discolor the paint on the rail. Although the screws are rusted the rail is in great shape. I tried hammering with a screw driver but they just don't budge.

I've never drilled out a screw and wasn't sure if maybe that could be an option. Or maybe a screw extractor (also never used)

Those are sheet metal screws if I remember correctly, and you can access the bottom of the screw from under the cab (again, if I remember correctly.
Soak the bottom with PB to start. If that doesn't work use the torch on the bottom or use a hand grinder and grind the point of the screw off. The heat and vibration will loosen them up.

Okay, so I actually got them out! I drilled them out just enough to get a better seat with the screwdriver. I tapped them enough with a hammer and they spun out. Thanks!

congratulations

We have a tech tip in the works on installing cab windlace. It looks pretty straight forward (well written). It should be easy to put together. We are waiting for two more images.

Peg

Since I just struggled with one side, I'll wait for some tips on the other side

I used plenty of soap and water (and some grease)
I did have to open up the channel in several places

Does anyone else agree that windlace was created by the devil? I think I've used up more hours trying to push this stuff in those grooves than anything else I've done on this truck. There must be an easier way!!!

There is. Buy an early '49 or earlier truck. They screw on.

hacker, I took a day break from the windlace and started on the passenger today. I sprayed the channel with liquid wrench spray lube and I found that the winblace slid much easier than when I used soap. Then the parts that didn't catch I just pushed in with a screw driver. Hope this may help you.

I have taken a few weeks break from the windlace after I got one side in,I also saw somewhere a note about putting headliner in first...good excuse to not install driver's side yet.
most of my windlace doesn't come near door

I used "personal lubricant" from the drug store. Cleans up with water and the wind lace popped right into the channel with a little persuasion from a plastic automotive trim stick. Hope this helps.

Tim

Tim's method is the correct answer: use a non-oil-based and non-silicone-containing lubricant AND widening all the "pinch" locations in the channels/tracks.

Tim,
Why do I think Woody probably would have made a special tool for this job .