The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine sputtering

I must admit that I haven't had time to look into what might be causing this problem yet, but hope to this weekend. The last couple of times that I have taken the truck for a spin it sputters and wants to die after a riding along in 4th at a higher rpm for several miles. With the gears that are in it, the truck will only run 40 to 45 miles per hour anyway so it easy to stay at a higher rpm for extended periods of time. It acts like the choke is stuck or its flooded. Other than that it starts up fine and runs good. Any suggestions on what to check first? Thanks, Bill.

Make sure the vacuum advance makes the distributor turn when you stomp on the gas.

Fuel filter needs to be replaced?

Go thru the typical tune up route.
Check the Vacuum
Dist vac adv
Plugs
Wires
Fuel filter
Points
condenser
Cap
Rotor

Hopefully it will be something obvious

Good luck

Bill, Doug Peterson and his sweet 1953 Chevy, I think was having the same problem, maybe a sputter or two here and there and then it back fired on him....He lives in Md. and I had the chance to meet him this past summer, he is a great guy.

He replaced his vacumm advance and he said it now runs alot better.

Thanks guys for the responces, I will look into the problem this weekend.

Well, I didn't get to spend the time I wanted to on the truck this weekend, too many chores. I did however move the truck into its new "temporary" winter storage barn. It started right up with the choke pulled like normal. When it was warm I moved it around and prepared to back it into the barn. It sputtered and acted like the choke was stuck, it appears to operate fine. Because it is an updraft, fuel was running out the bottom of the carb. I was suspecting the vacuum advance as previously suggested, but could it cause this. Even after it was in the barn and shut off, gas still ran out for a minute or so.

Bill, with gas running out of it like that when it's parked, it sound's like the needle valve in the carb isn't closing completly because of dirt or just normal wear. Has the carb been cleaned or rebuilt? For an updraft carb you can remove the bottem of the carb without taking the whole thing off of the intake.
I think a stuck needlve valve or dirt in the seat would cause sputtering.
Anyway, good luck and let us know what happens.

Bill,
I am not to familiar with the updraft carbs on the COE but we had them on old farmalls and it sounds like your float might be sticking and not shutting off the fuel flow. Happened a lot when they sat for a long time (like all winter) and the carburetor gummed up. Of course it could easily be something else, too.

I really enjoy looking at the pictures we took of your truck down in Waldorf. Maybe we can get together at a local show next spring.
Pete

Swampcat, yea it was running out of the carb when it was parked, and even after the motor was shut off for a minute or so. The carb looked to be rebuilt or maybe even a replacement when I got the truck, but I haven't done anything to it. I will definately look hard at this carb.
Doug, I was thinking it possibly could be the float even though admitedly I don't know that mmuch about these carburetors. I hopefully can spend some time on it tomorrow night.
It was great meeting you all at the show this summer and I defineately would like to meet up at a show in the spring. I would love to check out that beautiful truck of yours again too. I feel I missed out on a couple of shows around here at the end of the summer so I will be ready for '04.
I will keep you all posted on what I find, thanks a lot for the help. Bill.

[img]http://1929to1954chevy.web1000.com/files/cmp203.gif[/img]

Thanks for the diagram Ralphy. Thats a great view of my carb.

Wow!! Great diagram, and I think the carb deal sounds like the way to go.

Bill, let us know what you find out.

Well I finally got a little time to work on the carb problem....no excuses today with temps over 70 degrees.
I took the whole carb off because it was easier to separate on the bench than under the truck. When I got it apart it did seem a little dirty. I used a generous amount of carb cleaner on it. I have to remind you that I am no mechanic but it apears that everything is open and working correctly. I went through the book and the one thing that has me puzzled is where it talks about adjusting the float level. "Proper float level should be from 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch below the top of the float chamber". Mine is greater than that. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with my problem. I ran out of time but I still want to look at the "float lever" and how it seats against the "seated neddle valve". Right... sounds like I know what I', talking about. Hey, I'm learning, thats the main thing.