The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 47-48 Ignition switches

The manuals don't go into much detail. Can anyone confirm if the 3-position switch on the 47 + 48 trucks are:

Left turn to lock
Vertical is Off
Right turn is On

I've heard that if you remove key in left position, it's locked, but if you remove it in vertical, you only have to thumb the switch to a right turn and it can be started, without the key! I can still spin the starter in all 3 positions with the key in on my 48.

Thanks!

When you spin the the starter in each key position, will the engine start in all key positions?

Funny question, because I'm working on getting the engine started for the first time! So I don't quite know at this point.

lf its like this one
Both left and right are off

Center is on


Right -off. You can pull key out and operate to on with no key

Geez, I wish I had've known that! I haven't had it out, but the tumbler looks similar to the one in the pic. Guess i'll have to try it again in a vertical position.

My 1954 switch was wired "backwards" (in 1971) - however, it started every time when the key is turned the wrong way.

For old times sake, I mis-wired it the same way during the "restoration". It still starts (and turn off) just fine (in a backwards manner).

[I do not know if the 54 switch is different from earlier switches]

So, would the points still fire if the ignition was in the 'off' position (with the key in)? If not, then perhaps mine is wired differently...

The switch is very simple inside. The only place that any contacts make contact is in the vertical position. Both the left and right position has the contacts insulated.
Yes if you take the key out in the center or right position you can turn it off and on without the key.
Know many trucks that haven't had a key for years.

Thanks everyone, it seems like such a simple question, but where else but here would I be able to get an answer?!

I will report back once I get a chance to test it out.

I am trying to wrap my head around how wiring a simple on/off switch backwards would change which position would be "on". How many positions are there on your switch?
Carl

So I was able to confirm the switch position last night. With the key vertical, I was able to get it to start briefly, but it died after a big back-fire. Oh well, it's getting closer!

The 1947-1953 ignition switch is different from the 1954/55st ignition switch.

My postings in this thread are not pertinent - sorry.

Also, the 1955 and later foot-starter ignition switch is a different part number from the 1954/55st ignition switch (they also have a slightly different sized escutcheon ring).

Sorry about adding confusion to this topic; but, mine is wired "backwards" (right-is-off and straight-up-is-on), and it works fine: on/off/accessories and removing key with engine running. I do not remember if I am correctly using the accessory terminal (or, if I am using the "hot" terminal for accessories)? When I get around to fixing/checking this, I'll try to remember to post the results.

The center (start and run) and right (turn on/off w/o key) was a handy combination on the farm when the truck might be needed by several people. Keys were a nuisance.

My glass shop ran my '48's battery down trying to start it in the right position.

Ignition Switch Changes Jim Carter truck parts Tech Article.

Looks like the jc article differs from the film strip.
Third paragraph

The film strip looks like a switch that is installed in a passenger car.
Maybe that is how GM wired the switch for the passenger car.

At first I was thinking the switch in the passenger car was a spring loaded switch.
Where as, once the engine started you would let it spring back to the ON position.

But in 1949 the passenger car had the film strip switch and also a push to start button.
With a solenoid starter.
1949 Chev passenger car starting procedure pdf page 31 under Starting
The truck used a floor foot activated starter.
Maybe that is the reason for the different, ignition ON positions.

Then again JC article may be incorrect.
It's how the rear terminals are wired.

I don't know which is better on how the Coil is energized, when cylinder is in the:
A. Center position
B. 2 O'clock position

Both the film strip and the JC article agree the switch is locked when the cylinder is in the 10 O'clock position.
You need the key to move into the locked position.

I Purchased one of those a few years ago, just have not installed it yet.
If I remember correctly the housing is diffrent than the 2 position switch.

Although both have 3 terminals

Might have to dig it out and meter it.

Still available into the 1970's as a service part.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/21965380894/in/album-72157631868452754/