The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 1955.2, how can I tell what model number it is?

Hello all, I've been looking at a 55 near me with a 13' dump bed. Unfortunately, it had no fender emblems, and the ID tag on the driver's door jamb is wiped clean--nothing legible there. How can I tell what model number this thing is, or what the max GVW might be?

It has the 5/10 lug wheels, and a two speed rear end of that helps. I'm also assuming it's a 235. Are there any clues that distinguish between the models of this year?
Pic1

Pic2

Is there an engine serial number pressed into the block to the rear of the distributor?

That code will/might tell you/us the year of the engine and the model of the truck it was originally installed in.

http://www.1954advance-design.com/chev-specs/1955-2nd-Chevrolet-t-ser.pdf

Try this.

https://goo.gl/photos/Pm6ooUGRS3scpQRv7

https://goo.gl/photos/Tg9CfHHnuXKnRDgJ7

The grille looks like a '57 1 ton, but the rest of the truck does look bigger than that.

Have you looked on the frame (driver side) near the shouck mount for the VIN? It should be stamped there.

Well....I bought it! I actually made my post a while ago, but as it was my first, it took a while to get approved.

Thank you all for the responses, but I got antsy and bought it without waiting to find out more. After all, I live too close to tri5trucking, and I had to strike while the iron was hot! I settled on a price with the seller and arranged for a tow home this afternoon. It was only 14.8 miles from home! I would have tried a flat tow, but the brake pedal went to the floor and didn't come back, so that was out.

Now for the serial numbers:
The so-called "VIN" on the title ends with "F255N". From what Tim provided, that looks more like the engine serial. My guess is that this truck had a lost title at some point, and someone applied for a new title using the engine serial instead of the chassis. So if this really is the engine number (I'll have to double check the block), it's a '55 alright, and comes from Flint. Also the Type N would denote a 6000 RPO Jobmaster engine. What exactly does this mean?

Upon closer inspection, the ID tag in the door jamb that usually has the GVW is actually just painted over. Maybe I can find a solvent that will take off the paint without harming whatever the original markings consist of. I also found a tag on the a-pillar that has a serial: W255O001336 if I remember correctly. So it seems like it ought to be a 1955 6400 from Oakland. This is exactly what I was hoping to find.

So if the number on the engine still matches the number on the title, then I'd say this truck was still fully original! It looks like it's been a few different colors, but I'm glad it hasn't been too pieced together.

Welcome to the Stovebolt

You do have a '57 3000 Series grille and a '57 hood...but the truck is a 1-1/2 or 2 ton.

Do you have any close up pictures, hard to see details with small pictures.

If the SS door post tag it still there you should be able to see the stamped numbers...may be full of paint

Is there a GVW tag down low on the door post?

Mike B

Thanks Mike, I'm happy to have found that there's a niche for these on the internet.

I believe my previous post has already addressed most of your comments (whenever it shows up). My posts are showing up out of order, unfortunately, since I'm still on the newbie probation. You may have to copy and paste the URL, that doesn't seem to be working for me. My UBBCode is disabled.

Here's an album containing some better photos:
55 Chevy Album

serial # looks like it starts with W 255 which means it is a 1955.2 6400. (same thing I have)

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955truck2/55ctsm0load.htm

I wasn't able to view your pictures, the link didn't work.

F255N

F = Flint
255 = 2nd series 1955
N = 261 Jobmaster

Mike B

I had same problamo.
Try this.
https://goo.gl/photos/9LFN9wq5wwmnioPn8

Might have something to do with that he is a new member.
You have to post a few times before you can post links.
I guess?

Mike B, try this https://goo.gl/photos/9LFN9wq5wwmnioPn8

Many States used the engine serial number on their titles back then. If you have the engine number on the title DO NOT replace the engine until you have your local DMV change your title number to the chassis number. If the engines gone, there's nothing on the title linking it back to that truck...makes a big problem down the road when title and truck don't match.

Mike B

Thanks, that worked

Mike B

Yep, you got it. I didn't have my four posts in, so I wasn't able to utilize UBBCode at all. All's well now, and I was able to fix my old posts. Thanks for cleaning up after me in the interim!

Hmm, that's an odd practice considering how easy it is to swap an engine. Well I still need to check the engine serial anyway. I'm not too worried; they don't check the VIN for an in-state title transfer here anyway. I don't know how hard it would be to get them to switch from the engine serial to the chassis serial, but I guess I could ask. But if my engine is already mismatched, I don't think it would be in my best interest to bring up the topic with the DMV.

Quick question:
Does anybody know how those door jamb ID tags are printed? What solvents can I safely use to clean the paint off of this without hurting it?
ID Tag

They could put both the Engine serial number and the Vehicle serial number on the title.

The only info on that tag will be the GVW (16000) and the Trim & Paint stamped on the bottom of the tag... "STD" (Standard) Trim, "768" Paint Code (Sand Beige). Note, this color is a 1957 color...'57 hood and GVW plate, are you sure you have a 55.2 ??? Check the Chassis Serial number stamped on top of the frame rail on the drivers side just ahead of the steering box, it should match the SS door post tag number.

You might try some household paint remover...try a spot off of the tag first and see if it lifts just the top coat only.

Yes, back then the title could have either number...

Mike B

Lost Engine Numbers Jim Carter oldchevytrucks.com

What ever you do, I would make sure you try to preserve the original plates and don't touch the attaching rivets.
The stamped on letters and number on the bottom of the plate are the most important.
STD = might mean "Trim"
768 = might mean "Paint"
1956 plate
1955 plate

This Vehicle serial number Plate is the is more important than the above plate.
It should some how make it onto your Title.
It is interesting that it has standard slot head screws as attaching fasteners.
UNIT SERIAL NUMBERS location (picture lower left) From 1955 Chevrolet Shop manual,
Serial # : W255O001336
Mfg Year : 1955 (second series)
Model : 6400
Wheelbase : 154 inches
Plant : Oakland, CA
Stovebolt VIN Buster

Read the article in the below link.
Screw On ID Plates Jim Carter oldchevytrucks.com

The 55-59 door post tags were spot welded on from the factory...

Check you door post tag to the frame number...do they match???

Mike B

The plot thickens!
So, I worked at cleaning off the flat spot by the dipstick, and I'm not finding much. I think I might see a hint of a "72" in there somewhere, but it could be my imagination. If there were numbers on this block in that location, they weren't very deep.
Engine Serial
Oh well, at least any DMV agent will have a hard time proving that this isn't the right engine. Silver linings I suppose.

Now for the door post tag: I scraped, sprayed with brake cleaner, scraped some more, and it revealed something quite laughable.
Door Post Tag
So, here's my theory: my truck is entirely pieced together. If that tag were the right one, this thing wouldn't support it's own weight. From all the helpful charts you all have provided, I'm assuming the GVW should be 16000 lb, not 5000.

All this leads me to conclude that the cab was probably swapped from a 1/2 ton. Since the A-piller tag actually matches what a 6400 should have and is held on by screws (which shouldn't have been used after 1950 according to the links you all shared), I'd say someone had the presence of mind to keep the original tag when they swapped the cab. Unfortunately, they didn't bother to do the door post tag at the same time.

I'd like to make this comparison, but haven't found a frame number yet. Someone mentioned they'd be near the shock mount, but I don't have shocks. Does anyone have a good pic?

The engine pad looks clean enough to see numbers if they were there...must like a replacement block.

Wire brush the top of the frame rail drivers side near the steering box. It will be stamped so you can read it while standing at the front tire leaning over the fender looking down on the frame. The stamping may be about 5-6" long from first to last number.

Got yourself a real Frankenstien Truck, lol!

Mike B

frame number on a 56 1/2ton .... 55 was the first year for frame numbers, no telling if all models [bigger trucks] got it done

Bill

Thanks for the pic and description, guys. Looks plain as day; I have a feeling mine won't be quite so straightforward. I'll check it out tomorrow afternoon.

I'm pretty sure that was an across the board EVERYTHING GM made got frame numbers sarting in 1955. May have been a Fed Reg for all manufactures

Mike B

my 55 2nd has it stamped on the frame

Since we have the same truck, do you have a gallery or a build thread anywhere? I'm sure I'd find anything you have useful.

Well, the frame serial matches...mostly. It has the same "255O0001336". The W seems to be covered by a big weld blob of some sort. Oh well, close enough. I think it proves beyond a reasonable doubt that the tag on the A-pillar was actually swapped in from the original cab.

I should have mentioned the prefix letters are not stamped on the frame, you have it all...

If that's you real serial number you have the 336th unit out of Oakland...that's a very low number!

Mike B

Ah, that is funny. That blob does cover up a tiny portion of the '2', so I just figured the 'W' was entirely covered.

I thought it was a fairly low serial number, but wouldn't it be the 1,336th unit out of Oakland? It is kind of cool that it's the very first of the new Task Force style, being a 2nd series '55. Not that any of the original body is left, however.

Serial numbers in 1955 start with number 001001.

Mike B

Doh! I now remember reading that somewhere, I guess it didn't sink in. So I wonder how many were put together in Oakland, or all total for that matter.

I don't think I've ever seen any production numbers for TF trucks...

Mike B

Well I finally got around to inspecting my rear end. I found the casting number first, but didn't bother recording it. I already knew I had a H150 just by looking at it, so I didn't see the point in deciphering the casting number.

The stamped number was much harder to find, but I eventually cleaned off the crud in the right place. It revealed a "CL620". So now I know my truck can be "SLOW" and "SLOWER". Or as I'll prefer to call it, "TORQUEY" and "TORQUIER".

So I ran a few calculations:
SM420 w/ 7.50R20 speeds


So it looks like I'll top out at 51 MPH if I run the engine at 3000 RPM. That's fine if I'm on a backroad highway, but we have a lot of straight, flat roads where I think a higher cruising speed would be in order. I know I'd have to give her plenty of time to come up to speed, of course. But if it's straight and flat, I think even a 235 ought to be able to muster up enough power to go 60 MPH when traveling empty.

So, after some research, it seems that a NP-540GO might be the ticket; especially if I upgrade the engine at some point. I ran some more numbers with that as an option:
NP-540GO speeds
Looks like that gains me about 11 MPH with all other factors kept the same. This all assumes that the 551 revolutions per mile that I dug up for the 7.50R20 tires I have is accurate. I'll have to wait and see.

On another note, I thought the bed looked like a bit of an eyesore, so I decided to strip it down. I was actually able to just tear it apart with my bare hands. I think it looks like less of a monstrosity now.
Bed sides torn off

Don't be afraid to wind that 325 up a little more, the governors were set at 3800 rpm, so if you push it to about 3500 you'll be close to 60 mph. without doing anything to the drive line.

I run my Tow Truck with a 350 sbc (same rear and trans as you) up to about 65 mph on the interstate and still have pedal left. I don't have a tach, but guess I'm in the 35-3600 range (I have bigger rear tires, 10.00 x 22.5's).

Mike B

I'm glad those motors are OK being revved up a bit. What would that do to fuel economy if I were to run it at 3500 for an hour or two? How about motor longevity? I just figured that a lower cruising RPM might save gas and wear in the long run. It wouldn't be an immediate necessity, of course. I'd rather just get it on the road first in stock form.