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#1152145 02/26/2016 5:53 PM
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New Guy
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Hi. I'm new member today
I have got myself a 1958 4400. I have been looking around on the internet for parts...can not find anything....
Anyone know where to buy regular parts like brakes, kingpins...
Nice with some links....

Thanks from Norway.

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M
'Bolter
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Welcome to the Stovebolt wave

Check with your local NAPA...you'll be surprised what they can get.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
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'Bolter
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Hy 58 4400, welcome, if you ask us for specific parts we could try and help you locate what you need. Does Napa exist in Norway?

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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by 58 4400
Hi. I'm new member today
I have got myself a 1958 4400. I have been looking around on the internet for parts...can not find anything....
Anyone know where to buy regular parts like brakes, kingpins...
Nice with some links....

Thanks from Norway.

Hey new guy,

I get my larger truck brake shoes relined at a local clutch/brake rebuilder. Ask some truck/bus mechanics and they will know of a source.

Big trucks are a little tougher to find parts. You will need to hone your searching skills.

Norway is a beautiful country, we visited there last July and had a great time.

Good luck!

Paul


1941 Chevy 1 1/2-ton WW2 4x4 dump truck
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Lots more pictures
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New Guy
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Thanks.
Never heard of NAPA.

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R
'Bolter
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NAPA is a chain of auto parts stores here in the US. Don't know if you have anything similar over there. The folks on this site are quite knowledgeable about where to find things.
Good luck with your project.


Rich
1947 Loadmaster
1947 Chev. Loadmaster
1959 Chev. Viking 40

Life is short--eat dessert first!
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Rockauto.com ships anywhere (supposedly).

Here is their 1958 Chevrolet Truck section

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'Bolter
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Rockauto ships to Germany so I would suppose they would ship to Norway.

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'Bolter
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As others have mentioned, you can find most of the parts you will need. I had to get my brake shoes relined at a local shop, just like Paul did.

I also had no luck finding the brake shoe return springs (rear). So I had some made at a spring company here in the states.

"Necessity is the mother of invention." Let folks know what you need and they will help. Good luck with your truck!


~ Victor
1941 3/4-Ton Pickup (in process). Read about it in the DITY Gallery
1955 Grumman Kurbside "Doughboy" 235/3 on tree w/ OD
1957 3100 - moved on
1959 C4500 Short Bus "Magic Bus" - moved on
1959 G3800 1 Ton Dually "Chief" - moved on
1958 C4400 Viking "Thor" ~ moved on to fellow Bolter

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Shop Shark
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God dagen!

My suggestion is to buy a parts book off Ebay and even a parts interchange book if you have the funds. I'm in the final stages of a complete resto on a GMC 1946 1.5 ton. Part numbers for seals, bearings, brake parts etc are a huge help in locating these items. Once you have a GM number, the internet will provide many other numbers as these parts are commonly made by others. Keep in mind you GM only makes some of the parts on your truck, so they are all out there just under different numbers. Use the search feature in ebay that sends you an e-mail when some one posts your part number or word match. Check out:

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/


http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/identification/Advance%20Design/



Har en god dag.
mjl

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'Bolter
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I too, am a newbie, I have owned my 1954 6400 for tens days now. I have purchased several things, thus far from Ebay. As well as, other online dealers. My plan for the brake shoes and clutch is to have them relined when the time comes. Wheel cylinders have been my biggest issue thus far. I have not gotten that far into this project, still installing the floors. But ai have started the search nevertheless. Rebuild kits are fair enough, but you better put your big boy britches on when they show the price of the wheel cylinders, shewww, I almost soiled myself.

Other than that, most parts have been fairly.easy to locate. Although, I am having trouble locating the GM side view long arm mirrors for a dump bed....ah, the saga continues.

Mark

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Wheel cylinders can be bored and relined with either brass or stainless steel (stainless is better), so don't discard yours. Just about any machine shop should be able to do a pretty good job of reconditioning a wheel cylinder, but some of them are reluctant to take on a job that requires a lot of setup time on their machinery, and relatively few parts produced once they're ready to go. Look for am old retired geezer like me with machine tools and such, and be patient while he tinkers!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
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Well, I can machine them I suppose, so just bore it and install SS sleave.....I could handle that.

Thanks Hotrod Lincoln!!

Mark

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Just be sure to get a good press fit on the sleeve, and bore and grind the inside diameter to a very slick finish. I use a fine grit grinding cone on an electric die grinder mounted to the tool post of my lathe, followed by a 3-stone wheel cylinder hone. Making the mandrel to bolt the wheel cylinder to takes longer than the sleeving operation.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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Thanks a ton Jerry for the insight. By mandrel, you mean to hold the cylinder in the lathe? Maybe I should get one apart before I ask all these questions. I haven't got to the brakes yet. This truck was a daily driver until 2014 so I plan to just bleed everything. I am sure problems will show their faces when I do that. I was just preparing myself for what is yet to come.

Thanks again, talk to you soon,

Mark

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Yes, I build up a fixture to bolt the wheel cylinder to, and use a 4-jaw chuck to align the bore with a last word dial indicator so I can enlarge it with a carbide boring tool. Then I press a stainless sleeve in, and bore and hone it to the proper diameter. Holes are then drilled in the sleeve to access the ports for the brake line and bleeder screw.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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Jerry
Instead of press fitting, why not heat the cylinder up in the oven to about 175 degrees. Throw the sleeve in the freezer for a while and then just drop it in the hot cylinder.
Then finish bore the sleeve in the cylinder.
1.250 dia. means about .0015 oversize sleeve/press fit.
It could save any damage to the sleeve, when pressing it in with force.
Thin walled stainless shrinks a lot when frozen.

Done a lot of bearings, bushings, gears of all types of material over the years and I prefer the easy way.
Just don't get things too hot.

Liquid Nitrogen is really fun to play with by the way.

Just my $.02 cents worth.
Don


1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck
"The Flag Pole"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
1946 2-Ton grain truck
1946 3/4-ton pickup,
1953 1-ton pickup
1957 1-ton flatbed dually,
1954 Pontiac Straight Eight
Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
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Good idea- - - -I only use a very slight press fit, maybe .0015-.002". Once the sleeve is in place, there's very little stress on it, so it doesn't need much of a press. A shrink fit would be another method of securing it. I like to use dry ice and alcohol for shrinking parts like cylinder sleeves, etc. before installation. Thanks!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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New Guy
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Thanks...
My wife is used to ebay...maybe she can get me the parts :-)

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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by 58 4400
Thanks...
My wife is used to ebay...maybe she can get me the parts :-)

Once you get into rebuilding your truck, you too will be familiar with ebay...good luck and have fun!


1941 Chevy 1 1/2-ton WW2 4x4 dump truck
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Lots more pictures

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